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Camp__Forrest__'s avatar
Jun 09, 2014

Dometic RM763 Fridge won't light after running out of gas.

Greetings, I was running around the hills last week and my fridge was running on propane without any problems. Yesterday, I noticed the red light was blinking. I switched to my second tank and now I can't get it to light again. Here are some of the details:

- This is a 1985 Dometic RM763 AES 3-way fridge.
- All other propane devices are working fine. I have used the furnace and stove several times since the problem started.
- The fridge works on 120V A/C.
- I have left it off for several hours to allow it to reset.
- I disconnected the 12V power for a few minutes to try and reset it.
- I refilled and switched back to the original tank that was working before.
- When I turn it on (on propane) the light goes green, then goes red in about 10 seconds.
- I hear none of the usual noises. Usually when I turn it on, I hear a click followed by a thump which I have always assumed is the valve opening and the flame lighting. When it has run out in the past, I hear click, thump, click several times and then it gives up after a few minutes.

What's weird to me is the lack of noise and how quickly it gives up. It seems like it is not even attempting to light. There may be a reset procedure somewhere but I couldn't find it. Any tips on where to start?

8 Replies

  • Chris Bryant wrote:
    That first generation was very susceptible to dirty DC power- the first question we had for a call in customer with one was "how is your battery?". Without a doubt, half the problems were a bad (or disconnected) battery.


    Interesting. My batteries were very low at the time. I was on 120V, but the batts were still quite low.
  • That first generation was very susceptible to dirty DC power- the first question we had for a call in customer with one was "how is your battery?". Without a doubt, half the problems were a bad (or disconnected) battery.
  • wa8yxm's avatar
    wa8yxm
    Explorer III
    The reset is to turn it off and count to 10 or so then turn it back on.. Or to switch it to ELECTRIC then switch back.

    It is very very slightly possible there was an issue with the line, but doubtful. If it is a trailer it may have gotten a bit of air in the line an sent that to the Fridge line and the repeated re-tries finally bleed it off.. But even that is low on the probability list.
  • Update. When we disconnected the 120V to move out, the fridge stayed on and ran just fine on gas. It has been running on gas since then. I have heard it light several times. It seems to be working fine now. Who knows?
  • Not a bad idea shutdown. I had my wife turn it on while I my ear was literally an inch from the solenoid and I heard nothing. The lighter would be a good diagnostic.
  • I am sure someone will tell me that this will be the death of me and everyone/thing within 10 miles of me....

    What i did to diagnose my faulty sparker was to have someone turn on the fridge and while i attempted to light the burner with a lighter. when the fridge turns on you will her the gas solenoid turn on (fairly quiet) and the gas will start to flow, it sometimes takes a second or two. if all is working right, you would hear a click, click click...which is the sparker.

    if you notice that the lighter has a flame in the wind appearance you have air in the lines.

    In my case all i needed to do to fix was clean the contact where the sparker connects to the control board and i was back in business.
  • There is NO reset procedure on Dometic Refers even one as old as yours. The AES was the first Dometic auto operation refer. All you do is turn it on and allow the LP to light. You may have to do this up to 10 times to purge the LP lines since you ran out of LP. BUT!!!!! When you hear it start, you should hear the Spark Ignition clicking. IF NOT, then shut off and see if you smell LP. If you do, then stop trying to light on LP as the Spark Module is probably bad. Doug
  • j-d's avatar
    j-d
    Explorer II
    We had a Class C with a 763, and you described the way it worked. The LED shouldn't go to red, but still, are you sure the thermostat is calling for cold?
    The control board is a little hard to get at, but there's a fuse on or near it. I remember extending wire out to get the fuse external.
    Also remember the board's edge connector got wet on that model and Dometic recommended reversing the mounting position.
    You can pull a manual down here.