Dragging left rear disc brakes
Left rear disc brakes on my 1988 JD chassis were dragging so bad last time we were out it cooked the brake fluid. It would have overheated on the way home. I kept stopping every few miles (only 20 mil...
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Also, the Master Cylinder has "bleed" ports in it. When you release the pedal, fluid returns to the reservoir, through two fairly large holes, one for the front brakes and one for the rear. Those holes approach 1/8" in diameter. BUT there are also smaller holes, straight pin size, forward of those. They make sure all pressure returning from the calipers is bled off once you've let the pedal up. I've seen those rust shut and when that happens the brake stays partially applied.
But, typically, that will affect both brakes on that end. Both fronts and/or both rears.
So, how's the opposite rear brake acting? Getting overheated too?
Hoses are an often-overlooked suspect. Gotta say, I haven't seen a REAR hose actually block up like front hoses do, but I still replace the rear hose on a vehicle that leads me to think it's time for the front ones.
We had a school bus on Ford chassis with a dual braking system. Two hoses to each wheel, each pushing its own wheel cylinder on drum brakes. A steel bracket held the two hoses away from damage by the wheel. The steel rusted, and the swelling rust crushed the hoses shut from the outside.
Sounds to me like you'll probably end up working on the calipers. When I read John Deere RV chassis, I usually go look at a different thread, but I just finished working the "Kodiak" brand disc brakes on a boat trailer. The Caliper Casting might have been uniquely Kodiak, but the brake PADS were Buick, and the Caliper Piston no doubt was a common diameter. Likewise the slide pins and bushings probably fit something else. You might try an established NAPA store, where the staff has some parts experience. NAPA often has more catalogs they can look into, not just the computer terminal at the counter. I"m thinking you can get Hoses, Caliper Piston Kits, and Pads without calling them John Deere.
But, typically, that will affect both brakes on that end. Both fronts and/or both rears.
So, how's the opposite rear brake acting? Getting overheated too?
Hoses are an often-overlooked suspect. Gotta say, I haven't seen a REAR hose actually block up like front hoses do, but I still replace the rear hose on a vehicle that leads me to think it's time for the front ones.
We had a school bus on Ford chassis with a dual braking system. Two hoses to each wheel, each pushing its own wheel cylinder on drum brakes. A steel bracket held the two hoses away from damage by the wheel. The steel rusted, and the swelling rust crushed the hoses shut from the outside.
Sounds to me like you'll probably end up working on the calipers. When I read John Deere RV chassis, I usually go look at a different thread, but I just finished working the "Kodiak" brand disc brakes on a boat trailer. The Caliper Casting might have been uniquely Kodiak, but the brake PADS were Buick, and the Caliper Piston no doubt was a common diameter. Likewise the slide pins and bushings probably fit something else. You might try an established NAPA store, where the staff has some parts experience. NAPA often has more catalogs they can look into, not just the computer terminal at the counter. I"m thinking you can get Hoses, Caliper Piston Kits, and Pads without calling them John Deere.
