DREAMING. Controlled Shower Water Temp

Mex
if there is almost no water flow in the afternoon from the pipes
i think the only 'way' for the pump will help
is if you place it at the output of the water heater or in that water line inside the house
once the tank is pumped empty, the reservoir is gone,
i'm not sure the pump will help with low pressure from the city side
if there is low flow from the city side

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
This goes as well in a stick and brick.

"I think I want a 103F shower today"

Tap-tap-tap with a finger

Green light comes on...

Perfect...

(sigh)

Something like this?

https://youtu.be/DftrVQiFnMo

The medical hideout has a foot thick concrete wall covered with 6" ceramic tile. Typical Mexico aptitude.

Copper hot water pipe passing through eleven feet of concrete. Adjusting shower temperature in the winter resembles Ming The Magnificent tuning in his long range visual spying machine. Twenty adjustments.

But I need to boost water pressure at least to 8 PSI. At three in the morning, it is OK. After work it is a dribble. I hate to put a dime into this place but it is no joke that many times, showering means standing under a dribble. Wonder if an RV pump would work? I have lots of power supplies.

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
This goes as well in a stick and brick.

"I think I want a 103F shower today"

Tap-tap-tap with a finger

Green light comes on...

Perfect...

(sigh)

I installed an automatic hot/cold water mixer control in our stick-and-brick master bath decades ago when we built it. No electricity involved - so no absolute temperatue number on it's twist knob - just find a knob position that feels good and use it the rest of your life.

It does it's shower water temperature control thing regardless of system water pressure and regardless of how many other faucets in the house are running. It still works as well as the day I installed it. It wasn't inexpensive though ... quality never is ... you just have to figure out how to pay for it.

Boy, I sure wish there existed a version of this suitable for RV showers - that worked as well as the one in our stick house and without having to rip into the shower stall wall to install it!

Turns out I will need 2 booster pumps because my water pressure can be measured in ounces per square yard. This is in a stick and brick.

thanks for link to the off set adapters
but my wall is too shallow
would need to cut the shower stall and then add a box/raised housing, for increased depth

guess i will keep using it the way it is

Mr Wiz - now I see what you mean.

I'm not a plumber, but small brass adapters/offsets might not be necessary. PEX pipes can be pulled back and or forth and to the side - a lot. When I moved my kitchen sink, I bought flexible supply lines and fittings because new location of sink was several inches sideways from PEX pipes. But - with some effort - was able to pull the pipes right there.

When the wall is too shallow, this mixer won't fit even without brass adapters... or you could make a box on the shower wall. Just an idea.

Almot
he has a box on shower stall wall enclosing, the shower valve
it also seems a necessity because that wall is the outside wall of the RV

my shower wall fittings are the side backed against the bedroom inside wall
and the water lines are inside the bedroom wall
the faucet fitting is right against the stall wall
remove cover in bedroom to gain access to water lines
those offsets would never fit in my wall and allow connecting the water lines pex fittings, everything assembled would be too deep for my wall

this one is new replaced about 4 months ago, but not thermostatic temp adjust

Almot wrote:
If I set water heater lower, I will need to mix more hot water in, and will run out of hot water sooner. Unless I misunderstood Time2roll.

Yeh more for the stick and brick, as mentioned in the OP, were I have 75 gallons.