I am presently using small perforated breadboards that occasionally need the perforations enlarged for leads of larger devices such as diodes and resistors.Do I really need carbide drills and an expensive Dremel or Skil tool (which in themselves are clumsy to handle)?And is there a superior grade of hookup wire? I would prefer wire that it extremely soft annealed and easier to strip. I could also profit from expert advice on wire wrapping tools and accessories.I cannot find circuits online for my rig so I am manufacturing them from scratch.

Back in the 80s I built an I/O module for my Heathkit H8 PC using standard chip sockets (not wire wound type) and used a wire wrap tool plus solder. I was able to strip about 1/4 inch insulation and wrap about 2 turns and then solder. Worked OK for a hobby but it would never last in one of your salt water stories. :BShould mention I also installed resistors and caps in chip sockets.

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:I am presently using small perforated breadboards that occasionally need the perforations enlarged for leads of larger devices such as diodes and resistors.Do I really need carbide drills and an expensive Dremel or Skil tool (which in themselves are clumsy to handle)?What kind of perf boards are you using? I use cheap paper phenolic (usually orange, with tiny copper donuts only one side)... I get away with using a small flat bladed screw driver to ream the hole bigger at the cost of sometimes losing the copper pad.When I was fabricating my own printed circuit boards at home, using glass boards, I did use the fancy solid carbide drill bits in a dremel drill press. Before the dremel came along, it was a pure torture trying to drill the boards by hand with a conventional drill and conventional bits.You can buy second hand carbide bits in quantity dirt cheap from a popular online auction site. They're not sharp enough for the high speed CNC milling machines that make industrial boards by the millions, but they're fine for drilling a few holes here or there.

Used to drill P.C. boards years ago with a Dremel mounted in a small bench top drill press (that way the holes were straight), and there was less chance of the drill wandering...I don't think you'll need a carbide bit, but you will need a premium quality bit not a wallyworld special. A good bit will be sharpened properly and do a better job...I've seen cheap bits (especially small ones) that were "sharpened" backwards and tore or wore the material instead of cutting.

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:I am presently using small perforated breadboards that occasionally need the perforations enlarged for leads of larger devices such as diodes and resistors.Do I really need carbide drills and an expensive Dremel or Skil tool (which in themselves are clumsy to handle)?And is there a superior grade of hookup wire? I would prefer wire that it extremely soft annealed and easier to strip. I could also profit from expert advice on wire wrapping tools and accessories.I cannot find circuits online for my rig so I am manufacturing them from scratch.Get a Dremel DRILL PRESS ADAPTER/STAND.SEE HEREThat is what my Tech School used when I was there many moons ago, as one of our lab projects we had to design and layout our own circuit board. Once the board had gone through the stripping process we had to drill out the holes for the components. A Dremel mounted in a drill press adapter stand did the trick.No special drill bit needed unless you want it to last longer since circuit board material is phenolic board or fiberglass. You just need a set of small drill bits which will fit the collet of your rotary tool and will still make a hole big enough for the wire to pass.If you are considering making your own circuit board from scratch you can find free software for that purpose online or use MS Paint or Photoshop to draw lines and such.Once you have the design you can flip the design electronically then print it out on a laser printer.Once you have the printout you place the printed side of the paper on the copper side of the board. Then use a iron you would use to iron clothes placing it on the back of the paper. The heat of the iron will melt the laser toner and as you press the paper and board together the toner transfers to the copper.Remove the iron then allow board to cool off to room temp.Once at room temp place the board into warm water and allow to soak, the soaking is important, you want the paper to rub off away from the toner..The toner acts like a mask and will stop the etching acid from touching what is under it.I have used the toner method to create and transfer custom lettering to brass and even plexiglas. It does take some experimentation with paper, types of toner and even how much and how long to heat the item for best transfers.. I have even been able to transfer COLOR laser printing..Once paper has been removed and you have black mask of toner you simply want to inspect and correct any places the the toner did not stick to (they make masking pens for this).Once mask is OK you then proceed to etching the board.For an etch ant you can use Muratic acid instead of buying regular etching acid.Here is a top notch must read if you want to get all the details on the home transfer and etching process.Click HEREAs for wiring, I prefer to use stranded when possible, bends easier than solid.I stay away from the old school wire wrap.. Used to cringe every time I had to repair a 60s-70s Sylvania TV which often made extensive use of wire wrapping :M , just a joy to find that one blasted bad connection under several wraps on one post.. Often ended up soldering each post until the bad one was found.

I think he is using perforated bread boards not printed circuit boards. Enlarging the holes to fit his pin size. Hard to find a lot of that stuff anymore in this throw away world. I just used cheapo drill bits and bought lots of them. Dremel drill press works well. Sometimes a breadboard works out better than printed circuit board when you are changing the design as you build. They used to sell push pins that can be put in and removed as required. If you are drilling out the holes for crimp pins you may want to see if you can purchase the push pins from Mouser or other places on the internet.

Drilling P.C. Boards (tips solicited) | Good Sam Community

MrWizard
Moderator
Nov 18, 2014
solder station $14.95....Mini Solder Station, ZD-99
5w~50w up to 800* F

http://www.mpja.com/11-18-14.asp?r=318221&s=33
MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Nov 17, 2014
My car is on the peninsula rather than at home and I have to haul all this stuff including battery inverter, a ton of LED lights, power supplies, tools, instruments, plus clothing, the BiPAP and huge carton of supplies like masks and cushions - all in a tomato soup can '95 Dodge Spirit.
SCVJeff
Explorer
Nov 17, 2014
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Chris, would you be offended if I asked for examples? I believe a regular soldering station is above my own station, affordability-wise.
I personally have 2 Weller soldering stations, although there are several knockoffs around that seem just fine. For run of the mill circuit board work I use PTA7 tips. PTA is the tip configuration, and the 7 is the temp (700 degrees). I rarely go above that for board work, but do go down to 600 degrees.

Variable knob temp is better. RF Soldering is by far the best but those go for $300 used and often broken.
Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Nov 16, 2014
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Chris, would you be offended if I asked for examples? I believe a regular soldering station is above my own station, affordability-wise.

My go to home soldering station is one from MCM Electronics which is fully adjustable temp with bar graph temp readout.. They have a variety of changeable tips so you can use the correct size/shape tip for your needs. It my not have quite as good temp control as say a Weller but it costs a heck of a lot less than a Weller. Overall a very good "Hobbyist" or even semi pro soldering station.

At the time when I bought it it was on sale for $59.. Regular price now is $77..

MCM SOLDER STATION

They also have the same station with digital readout for a bit more money..
LScamper
Explorer
Nov 16, 2014
More tips!

Soldering station I have. Not a Weller but seems to work fine. Would not use in industrial setting.

http://smile.amazon.com/X-TRONIC-6040-Soldering-SOLDERING-MAGNIFYING/dp/B0052M8SZA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416156860&sr=8-1&keywords=x-tronic+6000&pebp=1416156864766

They have models without the hot air.

Radioshack has some of the best solder I have ever used.

http://www.radioshack.com/high-tech-rosin-core-silver-bearing-solder-1-5-oz-/6400013.html

http://www.radioshack.com/rosin-core-solder-2-5-oz-/6400005.html

Radioshack desolding braid is also about the best I have used.

http://www.radioshack.com/desoldering-braid/6402090.html

And for seeing small things on a circuit board you can not go without this.

http://www.amazon.com/Donegan-Optical-Binocular-Magnifier-Lensplate/dp/B000YZCSBU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1416155615&sr=8-2&keywords=optivisor+lensplate+%237

The #7 lens plate works for me but there are others to look at.

Then this light works perfect with the magnifier.

http://www.amazon.com/Led-Light-Attachment-For-Optivisor/dp/B0058ECQ46/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1416155227&sr=8-3&keywords=optivisor
MrWizard
Moderator
Nov 16, 2014
Maybe one of these would help

Crafters Hobby drill

Fiskars hand drill
GordonThree
Explorer
Nov 16, 2014
Mex, check out honorable Chinese brand XYtronic for an affordable solder station. Mine's nearly ten years old and still using the original tips and still working great despite the occasional abuse. It's was one of the cheapest I could find that offered digital temperature control with replaceable somewhat generic tips and heater core.
MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Nov 16, 2014
Chris, would you be offended if I asked for examples? I believe a regular soldering station is above my own station, affordability-wise.
Chris_Bryant
Explorer II
Nov 15, 2014
I really like higher wattage temperature controlled irons. That's how you get a fast warmup.
MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Nov 15, 2014
I was hoping for cobalt drills not carbide as I break cobalt less than HSS, or carbide. Thanks all the other tips. PC board assembly is a new area for me.

Now if I can only find a 20 watt soldering iron with foot switch that heats up within a few seconds...

My first fan cooled 30 watt LED lamp was finished this morning. Using silver color silicone over the exposed connectors. Man! Is that critter bright! I also found a half-price 12-volt to 36-volt booster online. It's the stupid heat sinks that are so expensive. Using a fan allows me a 3-to-1 advantage, a 2/3rds reduction in the size of the heat sink.

Next month, a bulk purchase of Arctic Silver adhesive, along with the PC stuff.