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profdant139's avatar
profdant139
Explorer II
Apr 27, 2014

Drilling thru roof for solar mounts: risk of leakage?

I'm a reasonably handy person -- lots of do it yourself projects, some of them fairly successful. I am thinking about a hundred watt panel on my roof -- that's practically all I have room for, and the way we use power, that will be more than enough. I know that more is always better -- but I am not trying to run the microwave or the a/c on battery power -- just the LED lights and the fridge and the water pump.

We have two 110 amp hour batteries, and it takes us three days or more to run just one battery down to 12.1 volts (i.e, 50% state of charge), even in cold weather. So if it takes three days to use 50 amps (half a battery), it looks like we are using 15 amps a day. A hundred watt panel produces about 8 amps in an hour, under good conditions. (I am sure you will let me know if my math is wrong!)

I thought seriously about a portable panel (which can be moved into the sun), but it seems to be a bit of a hassle to deploy and store, plus there is a risk of theft. I have read that even if we park the trailer in the shade (which we usually do), the roof panel will still put out some power. I've located a good package (with a controller and cables) at Solar Blvd. So I am ready to move on this.

But here is what is holding me back -- as an old sailor, I have a natural aversion to drilling holes through the "hull." So that is my main question -- will the roof mounts for the panel, plus the cable heading down into the trailer, increase the risk of water damage? How does one seal those holes in a "bombproof" way?

Second, once I penetrate the ceiling and get the cable inside, do folks run the cable inside the wall? That would be tough -- the inner panel of the wall is bonded to solid foam. There is no void for the wire to run through. So I guess the wire would run down the wall in a plastic channel of some sort -- a little unsightly, but it's just camping, right?

Third, I assume that the controller and the meter will go under a seat (no other place to put it in my tiny trailer). Am I right in thinking that the power cable will run from the controller down through the floor and out to the battery, which is on the tongue in a box?

Fourth, there must be a way to "split" the power output so that I can charge my spare battery at the same time I charge my main battery? There are times when we run down the main battery to 12.1 volts, and then I swap out the spare. And of course, I always alternate which one will start the trip as the main battery, so that they get roughly the same amount of use.

Thanks in advance for your advice!

29 Replies

  • I second the use of 3M 5200 or 4200 Marine adhesive and sealant. Especially in the screw holes and under any mounting plates. The reason is that 3M 5200, in particular, is an excellent adhesive as well as sealant. Once mounted, you can cover the plate and screw heads with Dicor Lap Sealant which is primarily a sealant.
  • Here is a picture of my roof, after coating it with a roof coating.

    It shows the solar panels tilted while I am applying the roof coating. To get the wiring from the roof to controller, I used a coat hanger and pulled in grey #10-2 wire (home Depot) to run the power through. I have about 12 amps going through each of the #10 wires to the controller, and then #8 wire to the battery.

    Good luck with your project.

    Golden_HVAC wrote:
    rickthescot wrote:
    Sounds like a great idea. I guess asking for pictures again is not going to persuade you though. We are visual creatures and I don't think 1000 words will accomplish what one image will. You can do it, just one pic.


    More pictures that I took a few days ago to post pictures of my solar panels, and their mounts. Some pictures are really close up pictures of the solar panel mounts, and give a clear picture of howrough the surface is.

    Golden_HVAC wrote:
    Hi,

    This is my front pair of panels. 120 watt mounted on a curved roof, 102" wide.



    This is the mount it is held on with three rivets into the frame, and then the bottom half is 6" long aluminum, with nutsert in the upper piece, bolt you can not see from the outside edge pointing inward.









    This picture shows the bigfoot panel mount sold by RvSolarElectric for $35 a set back in 1994. I wonder what they cost today?


    This picture shows the panels tilted while I was working on the roof.


    Fred.
  • Almot's avatar
    Almot
    Explorer III
    Though not a big issue with mere 6A, but it's better to keep the panel wire as short as possible. The fridge vent route is usually shorter than around the back.

    The very 1st install on the List illustrates this fridge vent route - you may skip the junction box on the side of the vent, expensive, not fitting well under the cap and unnecessary in case of a single panel. Buy a long MC4 cable AWG10, about 100ft(?), cut it in half, MC4 ends to the panel and bare ends to controller. MC4 cable included with the kit from Solarblvd is too short, brackets are useless and controller is an unknown off-brand. For that price you can get same 100W panel from the same store, a decent controller and enough MC4 wire. The wire you can get at http://www.unlimited-solar.com/10-awg-mc4-cable/?sort=priceasc.
  • You already have a whole bunch of holes in the roof and if they are sealed up properly they do not leak. The same applies to any new holes you might create. There's no reason to expect a new hole to create a new leak if you used the right sealant and an appropriate cover plate. For me, that means a generous application of Dicor lap sealant and some kind of cable entry plate like Winegard makes or a similar piece of plastic/metal large enough to cover the hole(s) plus an inch or two. Many are able to feed the solar output wires down the fridge vent and then into the basement creating no new holes other than where the solar panels are "caulked and screwed" to the roof.
  • When I wired up my Winegard satellite dish, I too wanted as few holes in the roof as possible. So I ran the wiring down the back, attached to the ladder, then turned it into the underbelly. Once in there, it can be brought up thru any interior walls which are hollow, under cabinents etc.
    You can pretty much get it wherever you need.
  • Almot's avatar
    Almot
    Explorer III
    On a good day 100W flat panel in Ca will harvest 15-20 AH a day in January and 30-40 AH in June. You won't get enough on some days in winter, and battery will slowly go lower but it will take maybe a whole bad week to drop to 50%, with your 15 AH consumption.

    Though I don't understand how you can live on 15 AH a day. Fridge control circuit alone draws at least 10 AH per 24 hours. Maybe with no furnace and very little use of LED lights and radio, you can.

    1) Check List of completed projects.

    I know that Search doesn't work well, so briefly what was recommended by many and what I did too, for anchoring and sealing:
    3x3" or 4x4" aluminum angle about 6" long, with 1/4" pins or machine bolts into the side of the panel (with rivet nuts if you use bolts), and #10 anchor screws into the roof plywood (2 per bracket is enough in your case), with plenty of Dicor under the bracket and over the screw heads. I also lubricated screws with Dicor before driving them in.

    There is already a few dozen screws in your roof not counting those holding plywood to rafters, and another 8 won't change anything.

    Needless to remind to sailor, but for other people reading - use stainless hardware only. Manufacturers are being cheap and use regular steel, but there is no reason to repeat their mistakes.

    2) Nobody runs cable inside the wall. What people often do, is drilling the hole in the fridge metal vent side and routing the cable through the wall of the fridge cabinet and then through the top or bottom cabinets. Yes, plastic channel on exposed areas.

    3) Yes, battery cable through the floor or through the front diamond plate using cable strain relief.

    4) If spare and main battery is same specs and same number, i.e. 2 main and 2 spare, you just charge them all. I don't see a need to discharge one deeply while keeping a spare one full and then swapping them. Maybe I'm missing something here.
  • I at first drilled a hold and used 3m 5200. No issues.

    Later I added another panel and upgraded the wiring to both and drilled more holes, and used Cord grips.

    No leaks, and good strain relief too.

    Cord grips
  • Fact: every hole in any roof is a potential leak. Whether it becomes an actual leak depends on what you do after you poke the hole.
  • I drilled holes in my roof 11 years ago used self leveling caulk and no leaks to date check it a few times a year and if needed use more caulk. ran my wires down through the chimney for the ref rig.

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