DSI suburban hot water tank - shut off

Dont ask me how I got it fix. It does not make any sense. Now the hot water heater works fine. Anyway about the electrode. there is sort of carbon built on the rod so I used steel wool to polish. I noticed the rod has chipped in the middle. I don't think it has to do with problem because it will still spark the rods anyway. Am I correct? Thanks!

RJsfishin wrote:
Quote:
The circuit board is very reliable
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That's about a crock ! The OEM boards are garbage ! I've never seen one last 10 yrs, and many don't go 5.
The universal Dino board (fits frig and most all heaters) has much better longevity record.
One that I bought one time, I had to break out a resistor (time delay) to use it in my attwood WH.

No it isn't a crock. Mine has been working since I bought the coach in 2001. The crock is that most people don't know how to service the gas portion of the water heater and always blame the board.

Quote:
The circuit board is very reliable
------------------------------------------------
That's about a crock ! The OEM boards are garbage ! I've never seen one last 10 yrs, and many don't go 5.
The universal Dino board (fits frig and most all heaters) has much better longevity record.
One that I bought one time, I had to break out a resistor (time delay) to use it in my attwood WH.

Dino does make a board for the Surburan (And Atwood) and here is something you might find surprising..... IN the case of several models.. it is the self same board for both units.

If your water heater is Propane/Electric you may need an adapter to go along with the control board (When I replaced mine I had to go with an Atwood, I could get the Dino board, but NOT the adapter, locally.. Stupid dealers only stocked half of what I needed)

On my furnace the board that fits it (Atwood) also fits many Suburban models.

Also boards are, I suspect, made in the USA (The board it self) and the assembly is in the USA, My Furnace board was very well built way better than the Atwood, also several dealers (100% of the service people I have spoken to) make the same comment.. In addition I have the creds to look at the design of the board.

I have a theory as to what killed my furnace... Seems Dino shares it cause they built in protection (lacking on the OEM) against just this kind of failure.

I am going to take those parts off and bring to RV dealer. That way I can compare with new and see if it needs to be replaced. I have a feeling circuit card may be a problem. Earlier today I was surfing Ebay. They do sell circuit card. I saw one circuit card is made by China. Now made me thinking - what if my circuit card is made by China? I hope not. If that is the case, I am taking it out. Do you know if Dinosaur made circuit card for Suburban water heater? If you know, what part number? Thank you!

I have an atwood and had that problem with my furnace, but some things translate

The sequence
T-stat complains it's cold (calls for heat)
Circuit board then opens gas valve and begains generating sparks (NOTE there are additonal steps in the case of a furnace, do not apply here)

Flame on

Thermocouple gets that old warm feeling and starts cranking out 0.480 volts.

Circuit board senses 0.480 volts and continues operation till T-stat feels aall warm and snuggly (Opens).

Problems, Since you report good flame, For a few seconds

Thermocouple (you said it's working)

Connections betwen it and control board

Control board

If the latter (Which I suspect it is) Check Dinosaur boards.. That is what I put in my furnace.. Very well made board.

dons2346 wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:

dons2346 wrote:
To add to Biscuits post, the connection between the brass nozzle where the gas emitted and the aluminum tube where the gas goes to is a slip connection which is very loose. This is where the millivolts gets transferred to the circuit board. It can get a little corroded and needs to be cleaned so there is a good connection. Put scribe marks on everything and take it apart and use some emory cloth to clean.

The circuit board is very reliable and most problems are caused by corrosion in the connectors ans this one slip joint

The flame proof signal goes back to circuit board via the spark electrode/high tension wire......not via burner tube.

There is current running through the burner tube, trust me. If that slip connection isn't a good one, you will get a flame out.

You may have stray voltage due to tube being in touch with spark electrode bracket (grd. source) BUT it has NOTHING to do with flame proofing....that is done via spark electrode & it's wire back to circuit board.
The circuit board is what provides power to gas valve and holds it open when it gets the flame proof signal.
No way for that stray voltage at burner tube to get to circuit board or gas valve terminals.

Old-Biscuit wrote:

dons2346 wrote:
To add to Biscuits post, the connection between the brass nozzle where the gas emitted and the aluminum tube where the gas goes to is a slip connection which is very loose. This is where the millivolts gets transferred to the circuit board. It can get a little corroded and needs to be cleaned so there is a good connection. Put scribe marks on everything and take it apart and use some emory cloth to clean.

The circuit board is very reliable and most problems are caused by corrosion in the connectors ans this one slip joint

The flame proof signal goes back to circuit board via the spark electrode/high tension wire......not via burner tube.

There is current running through the burner tube, trust me. If that slip connection isn't a good one, you will get a flame out.

dons2346 wrote:
To add to Biscuits post, the connection between the brass nozzle where the gas emitted and the aluminum tube where the gas goes to is a slip connection which is very loose. This is where the millivolts gets transferred to the circuit board. It can get a little corroded and needs to be cleaned so there is a good connection. Put scribe marks on everything and take it apart and use some emory cloth to clean.

The circuit board is very reliable and most problems are caused by corrosion in the connectors ans this one slip joint

The flame proof signal goes back to circuit board via the spark electrode/high tension wire......not via burner tube.

To add to Biscuits post, the connection between the brass nozzle where the gas emitted and the aluminum tube where the gas goes to is a slip connection which is very loose. This is where the millivolts gets transferred to the circuit board. It can get a little corroded and needs to be cleaned so there is a good connection. Put scribe marks on everything and take it apart and use some emory cloth to clean.

The circuit board is very reliable and most problems are caused by corrosion in the connectors ans this one slip joint