In prepping for a long trip I crawled under the RV and saw some screw that had popped through the thermal cover down there, causing the cover to sag in places. The small washers originally installed at the factory had ripped though and I replaced them with bigger ones. Toward the rear of the RV was the lowest, biggest sag and I saw only one hole where I surmised the washer had also worked its way through but when I felt with my finger there was only a hole in the crossmember, no screw. I slipped a fender washer through a screw and installed it. No more sag but - water!Water rushing out in a few places of the thermal cover. I cut a 5 inch square hole through the cover where I had placed the new screw only to discover with a flashlight that I had screwed through the crossmember and into the fresh water tank.Any idea how to fix this? Is there some sort of plug that will keep my 136 gallons of freshwater in?Draining the tank now ...

Depends on the tank material, you can buy repair kits on Amazon,or you might be able to use an Expanding Plug but you'd have to enlarge the hole. Tank has to be made of moderately heavy plastic for that to work.If you can get to the inside of the tank you could use a fender washer with a piece of rubber underneath, and another like set on the outside, tie together with a machine screw and nut.Or for a quick fix a golf tee can work, sand the outside to remove paint, tap it in and as it absorbs water it will expand and seal the hole. These can last quite awhile, you may want to snip off most of the tee on the outside to keep it from being dislodged.All of this stuff comes from what we did in an industrial setting.

Eternabond tape works for that and is permanent

Click For Full-Size Image.I put the screw back in hoping it may seal itself but no luck. Water is running along the crossmember and dripping down elsewhere.

agesilaus wrote:Or for a quick fix a golf tee can work, sand the outside to remove paint, tap it in and as it absorbs water it will expand and seal the hole. These can last quite awhile, you may want to snip off most of the tee on the outside to keep it from being dislodged.All of this stuff comes from what we did in an industrial setting.That actually sounds doable until I get back from my trip

Kober wrote:agesilaus wrote:Or for a quick fix a golf tee can work, sand the outside to remove paint, tap it in and as it absorbs water it will expand and seal the hole. These can last quite awhile, you may want to snip off most of the tee on the outside to keep it from being dislodged.All of this stuff comes from what we did in an industrial setting.That actually sounds doable until I get back from my tripWe'd use tees in pipe leaks and such until an outage was scheduled when it could be welded. That might be over a year sometimes so they can be durable. 'd carry a few extra tho just in case.

Dumba$$ | Good Sam Community

mobeewan
Explorer
May 26, 2018
If you can support the tank and remove a supporting angle you could then move the tank enough to allow the flex seal tape to be wrapped around the bottom corner of the tank for a temporary fix.

All three tanks on my trailer have 2 angles supporting them running from the left I beam to the right I beam.

One angle is bolted in place the other is welded in place.
Bill_S_1
Explorer
May 26, 2018
Looks like you have a temporary fix for your trip. When you are ready to do a permanent repair, a number of solutions have been offered here, but I didn't see this one. You'll need access to the damaged area, which may or may not mean dropping to tank, but once you do, this product may be a good alternative, although I do like that JB Waterproof repair product.
Tank repair
Bobbo
Explorer II
May 26, 2018
While this can't help you, you have helped me. I am preparing to screw some stuff to the floor of my RV in one of the closets. The water heater is in that closet and the water lines come up out of the floor. I have bought this Phone/Computer Endoscope so I can look under the floor before drilling to locate the water lines.
mobeewan
Explorer
May 26, 2018
Bobbo wrote:
While this can't help you, you have helped me. I am preparing to screw some stuff to the floor of my RV in one of the closets. The water heater is in that closet and the water lines come up out of the floor. I have bought this Phone/Computer Endoscope so I can look under the floor before drilling to locate the water lines.

You might give a review of it when you use it. I'm looking at something similar, but I haven't purchased it yet.

I bought a Ryobi TEK4 inspection camera about 3 years ago since I already had a Ryobi TEK4 screw/drill driver that used the same battery. The camera works okay for what I've used it for so far but but it's a bit awkward and the cable is a bit short. You have to twist on the camera as you flex it to keep the camera orientation on the screen. It looks like later versions have a skinnier camera and thinner flexible cable.
Bobbo
Explorer II
May 28, 2018
mobeewan wrote:
Bobbo wrote:
While this can't help you, you have helped me. I am preparing to screw some stuff to the floor of my RV in one of the closets. The water heater is in that closet and the water lines come up out of the floor. I have bought this Phone/Computer Endoscope so I can look under the floor before drilling to locate the water lines.

You might give a review of it when you use it. I'm looking at something similar, but I haven't purchased it yet.

I bought a Ryobi TEK4 inspection camera about 3 years ago since I already had a Ryobi TEK4 screw/drill driver that used the same battery. The camera works okay for what I've used it for so far but but it's a bit awkward and the cable is a bit short. You have to twist on the camera as you flex it to keep the camera orientation on the screen. It looks like later versions have a skinnier camera and thinner flexible cable.

A brief review of the new USB Endoscope camera for my Android phone/laptop computer is HERE.
Charlie_D_
Explorer
May 29, 2018
Bill S. wrote:
Looks like you have a temporary fix for your trip. When you are ready to do a permanent repair, a number of solutions have been offered here, but I didn't see this one. You'll need access to the damaged area, which may or may not mean dropping to tank, but once you do, this product may be a good alternative, although I do like that JB Waterproof repair product.
Tank repair

Says it won't work for Polyethylene which is what most water tanks are made of. If black, probably ABS. I have seen some new products on shelves that say they will repair Polyethylene but have not used them.
railrode1
Explorer
May 31, 2018
Drain tank. Squirt hot glue in the hole.

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