duo-therm a/c does not start

dougrainer wrote:
You disagree, but you have a POWER SUPPLY problem. The 120 is NOT getting to the Board. Doug

Guess I was right:B Doug

Hi,

I think you mean Progressive Industries. PD makes converters.

Vacationer04 wrote:
I have finally gotten my A/C issue solved. Along with that, I had other electrical gremlins that I thought were unrelated to that problem. My ATS was diagnosed as only having one hot leg. It was damaged by heat which appears to have been due to a large power surge. After having the IOTA 50A piece replaced, all of my non-working circuits are now up and going. I chose a Progressive Dynamics unit that has a surge protector built in.

Thank You, Very Very Much for this update! So often we wonder... Glad you have it settled.

I have finally gotten my A/C issue solved. Along with that, I had other electrical gremlins that I thought were unrelated to that problem. My ATS was diagnosed as only having one hot leg. It was damaged by heat which appears to have been due to a large power surge. After having the IOTA 50A piece replaced, all of my non-working circuits are now up and going. I chose a Progressive Dynamics unit that has a surge protector built in.

I already have everything zipped back up getting ready to leave Friday so it will have to wait now until my return. The forecast for next week at my destination is cooler than expected so I can probably survive with just the rear A/C and a fan. I appreciate the help trying to get it going. I'll look again at those last comments upon my arrival back home.

At the AC control board. Are the 2 yellow 12 volt wires connected to other wires? Doug

I'd like to help but I'm really at a disadvantage. You have the coach and the A/C. Maybe even a wiring diagram. Doug can draw the wiring diagram from memory.
Me? None of the above.

From what Doug said, if you have voltage all the places you said you did, IF you have power across the Romex (black to white 117V) and then you jump black to blue (as Doug said) at least compressor should start. Unless you have bad components (like the compressor) or bad wiring, from the way I read Doug, the compressor should start.

Can you post Make/Model, picture of the wiring diagram? There's usually a label with the diagram. Might be several, the A/C itself, the thermostat, that metal control box...

Shouldn't I have a reading from the blue/black together anytime there is 120V? I expected that jumping would put the fan or compressor into manual mode at least, correct? Could I take a separate source of AC power up to the compressor or fan to verify that they do in fact work? Is there a safe way to power the A/C for full on service while I drive? I don't want to make it a fire hazard but if I have it on normally with the GEN running it would be full on with whatever fan speed I select anyway. I just need to have it working while I travel about 6 hrs.
Like I said previously, I would take it in for service if I could have gotten an opening but 30 days out would be too late for this trip and after I return A/C will not as important as now.

IF you have Tstat display and the board clicks the 12 volt system is OK. Have you checked the wires(3) on the compressor? That Blue and Black at that black relay on the board just supplies 120 power straight to the compressor(thru the capacitor). I guess it is possible that BOTH the Compressor and the Fan motor have failed at the same time, but I have never seen that. Doug

First, let me apologize if my remarks have been taken the wrong way, by Doug, or anyone else. I am just getting bummed about this, but I am following advice I am being given with no positive results.
Doug, I just tried your last instructions for testing.
I have 117V coming in through the Romex on both B&W wires.
I have 117V also at the 3 wire junction of the whites.
I have 117V at the black wire in at the blue / black relay.
I have 117V at the blue wire out at the relay.
If I jump the blue / black there is no reaction. Am I expected a reaction too soon? I waited about a minute or so. The rear comes on after about 30 seconds.
If I test the blue / black at the relay with the voltmeter I get no reading together only separately.
At the 6 way plug out to the top, the white, blue and black all have 117V.
I did not check the others at this point.
When I swapped the capacitors and starters, all terminals were clean and tight before and after that operation.
I still get the click at the board inside, but no other indications as of today.
I know the board must get 12V but where do I check for that at the box?
I have found no fuses for A/C anywhere only the breakers. Is it disguised under another name? I have four fuse panels but nothing labeled like that. Why does the rear still work if the front sends the signal to it?
Sorry if I am a PITA, but hoped to get it back up or diagnosed before I leave next Friday.
Jim E.