E-Z Flex ?

myredracer wrote:


I seem to recall a couple of people posting in the past year something about filing a groove on the bolt so the grease can get evenly distributed.

Don't put a groove in the bolt. That would create a stress point and a possible fracture. Instead, cut a figure 8 inside the bushing using a lathe or by hand using a Dremel type tool. It doesn't have to be real deep or pretty. Without a place to go, the hole in the bolt may be blocked and no grease will flow in. Some say to orient the hole on the side opposite the load but that wouldn't supply grease to where it's needed.

Charlie D. wrote:
The wet bolt kit comes with bronze bushings to replace the plastic ones that wear through in a year or so. IMO, the bronze bushings and bolts will last a lifetime on most rigs with a once or twice shot of grease each year. The shackles are twice as thick and heavy as the OEM.

In our last TT, the cheap OEM plastic bushings were ALL shot in just the 2K or so miles from Indiana to the west coast. I have to wonder how many have the same thing happening and will eventually find damage to the shackles, springs and/or stock equalizers and wonder how the heck that could happen?

Now have the EZ-Flex and am impressed. Very heavy duty compared to all the other stuff, including the Trail-Air ones. I expect these to outlast the TT and myself.

I seem to recall a couple of people posting in the past year something about filing a groove on the bolt so the grease can get evenly distributed.

The static clearance will not vary IF your existing equalizer has the same dimensions between the holes vertically. My equalizer was slightly greater resulting in the "tight" fit. It could be that the clearances were too tight on my Wildwood and the factory choose a taller equalizer to meet clearance requirements.

Also, when the wheels hit a bump, the rubber biscuit compresses and results in a tighter clearance. That's what is supposed to do to provide the shock absorbing ability.

EDIT: I just checked and my static clearance is 2" to 2 1/2". Only the front tires are hitting the wheel well.

joebedford wrote:

diazr2 wrote:
I think I am going to pass on these because of the clearance issues.

Interesting. They didn't change the clearance on my rig at all.

Yes they do. You'll not notice any change in clearance/ride height when the trailer is parked but get out on the road and your wheels/axles now have the ability to move further up towards the wheel well. They provide increased suspension travel.

diazr2 wrote:
I think I am going to pass on these because of the clearance issues.

Interesting. They didn't change the clearance on my rig at all.

BFL13 wrote:
I was going to get a wet kit but the RV shop guy pointed out that is only for the one bolt and the other two still wear through like before. So I lost interest in that. I don't have the E-Z Flex to compare with the basic set on mine.

I would recommend you NEVER ask that RV guy ANYTHING since he has no idea what he is talking about and is SO WRONG:E

Larry

Thanks for everyone's help. I do appreciate it. I think I am going to pass on these because of the clearance issues. I have already upgraded the tires to two sizes bigger than they were. My clearance on the wheel wells is about an 1½ so with that in mind and your great input I will save myself time and aggravation by skipping on these. Without your help I would have put them in and found out the hard way that I didn't have enough clearance. Thanks so much for the help
With Thanks Ray

joshuajim wrote:
I installed them on my Wildwood, and the ride quality has improved considerably. The only issue that I have had is that the stock clearance between the tire and wheel well has been reduced by about an inch and now on heavy bumps, the tire hits the top of the well. Not enough to do any damage, but still hits.

So how much clearance above the tire is needed to avoid rubbing? I understand this kit doesn't change the ride height but does allow additional upward wheel travel.

There is one hole in each bolt and 2 on the EZ Flex. If you decide to change, grease the Zerk before installing to ensure the hole was drilled all the way through. Bolts are serrated and not designed to be turned. You have to drive them out. Remove Zerk before trying to drive the, in. I tightened the nut slightly before each hit and the bolts went in easier.

The shackle type the RV guy was showing me (I am the moron more likely! :) ) had a grease zerk that did the one hole in the middle only, so the other two holes didn't get greased it seemed like.