Electrical woes

Hi, I have a 2000 Harney Renegade Sedona, I am in need of a wiring diagram and some help if possible?
I bought this rv knowing it needed a little work. When I picked it up it started from the rear panel start button. since getting it home on a low boy, it will only turn over from the push button on the rear panel, but will not start. sounds like its not getting fuel to the motor. Im not sure about the wiring since I do not have the wiring diagram. I do have all the books for everything else if any one is in need. Im also not are if the batteries are hooked up right. thanks for your help. you can use my private email to contact me if you would like.

JasonElderkin@outlook.com

DrewE wrote:
There's more than just a bad transfer switch, though that may well be the root cause. It sounds as though your chassis battery may be discharged or dead as well. (A transfer switch in and of itself would not cause any engine starting problems, since that's all 12V systems.)

Question: Can a bad transfer switch cause engine starting problems
Answer: In the case of a motor home YES.
Question: HOW???? Since the transfer switch is a 120 volt HOUSE device and the starting system is an independent of the house 12 volt system?
(Actually this is a very good question).

Answer: Motor homes often sit for long periods of time without being driven.. This allows the CHASSIS battery to self discharge to the point of deceased, I do not mean dead (run down) I mean DECEASED, (unable to take and hold a charge) (I have seen this, once, in a car).

Now in many MODERN Motor homes (My 2005 for example) the Isolator (The device that allows the engine to charge the house battery) is bi-directional (It also allows the house to charge the engine battery if shore/generator power present) If the transfer switch fails. then the house has no power, and the converter does not convert, and thus the hosue can not charge the chassis, and over time the battery runs down from self discharge and parasitic loads.

The case of the car.... My Mother-In-Law had Alzheimer's and when it comes to driving was getting kind of dangerous. Now it is kind of hard to tell that to an Alzheimer's patient, Dangerous in fact, so what we did is my Wife, Daughter and I conspired to take her everywhere she wanted to go, Shopping, Hair and Doctor appointments, We were always there to do the driving... Well after a year or 3 of this her car would not start, would not even take a charge, I could start it with a Jump Pack but that's the only way.

Check all the ground wires from the batt's. Or even take some jumper cables and ground the batt's to the frame. Went through this with a friends MH for 3 days in 102 degree temps. Turned out to be a bad ground cable that looked ok from the out side. Would do weird things flushing the toilet would turn off the refrigerator etc.

Are you diagnosing this from the lights and gauges on the dash?

Thanks Guys, I have checked the Batteries,they are all good. The Transfer w
switch is receiving power from both the Gen and shore power. Don't know about the out put. Alternator is putting out. Ocala Cat is coming out tomorrow to see if we can get the coach drivable so we can get it in the shop

It sounds like you have a dead chassis battery. Have you looked under the hood to see if there is a belt parted? You also may have an open transfer switch because the genset doesn't deliver power. Without knowing the wiring or having a meter in-hand at the equipment, it is almost impossible to diagnose, accurately, the problems.

Do you have a hand-held meter?

There's more than just a bad transfer switch, though that may well be the root cause. It sounds as though your chassis battery may be discharged or dead as well. (A transfer switch in and of itself would not cause any engine starting problems, since that's all 12V systems.)

It may not be the transfer switch itself that's bad, but merely a loose connection to it or between it and the electrical panel. With the power off, check that all the screws and wire nuts and whatnot are tight and that the wires don't look overheated. Check both the hot and neutral connections. (It would be a good idea to check the safety ground connections, too, but they wouldn't cause a loss of power if loose or disconnected, "just" a loss of safety.)

Bad batteries or converter not working.