Electrical

They can do dual duty. My bathroom sink drain ties into the black tank vent pipe a few inches above the black tank. My kitchen sink drain and my shower drain, both, tie into my gray tank vent a few inches above the tank. As a matter of fact, that is the only opening in my gray tank except the drain line going to the dump station.

Here is the Winnebago schematic.

Looking at the plumbing a little closer that is just a vent pipe so should not be a problem for electrical..

I think I will skip adding an outlet at this location from what I have learned here. Raising the box away from potential water intrusion is a good idea.

We will see after a few trips how we feel about adding more outlets then..

Thanks for the input....

It depends on what you want to run that GFCI too. That is where the 30 amp shore cord is junctioned and the Orange wire goes to the Breaker box. Now, you have a 30 amp trailer. IF you are going to be running the Roof AC, that will pull about 14 to 15 amps HI COOL. That leaves the rest of the trailer with 15 usable amps. The refer will pull 2.6 amps and the Power converter 1 to 3 amps depending on the DC load. That leaves you with 10 amps left. What type of appliance do you want to run with the extra outlet. If the roof AC is not going to be run, then you have more than enough current to run almost anything. The Microwave will pull 9 to 11 amps depending on its size. If you use a coffee maker or electric skillet--- 5 to 8 amps also. Hopefully you do NOT have a combo 120/LP water heater. They usually do not install a 120 type water Heater in smaller trailers. Doug

I would move that junction box away from the drain pipe and mount it a little higher to avoid problems if there is ever a leak.

Wait a year - you'll be much more comfortable opening a wall.
And maybe you will find you don't need another outlet. We only have one outlet in our RV and hardly ever use it.

Do it right or don't do it at all. Learn to fish cable. There may be no need to run wire in the underbelly.

CODE:
is for one feed to the distribution panel
all circuits sub from the distribution panel

How critical is this new circuit ?
you could but a box in the wall, install a Circuit breaker, feed the new outlet from the circuit breaker
the new circuit would be protected by the breaker
BUT you would still be against code
the reason forthe breaker is to protect the new wire from burning down your trailer, a GFI won't do that, and since the circuit would be connected to main shore input, any overload would have to trip the shore box breaker
your malfunctioning appliance could melt the wire and burn the TT before the 30amp shore breaker tripped

However since you have all this open
why not install a second box and a totally seperate 20amp circuit, with a 20 amp plug in in the shore power bay, to plug into the 20amp outlet at the shore pedistal

many people do this to have a secondary extra power circuit for an electric heater etc..
don't forget the breaker to protect the outlet

I added another 4sq. box beside that box run a cable them and added a panel mount breaker to protect the receptacle I added to the new box.

Sam Spade wrote:

pianotuna wrote:
Do it at the power center instead. Add breakers as needed.

If this really is a "brand new" trailer and it only cost $30K.......some features will be left out.

Like a distribution panel maybe.
Like a generator.
Like anything over maybe 4 outlets.
Maybe even like having it's own 12 V power system.

Knowing the make and model would probably get much better answers.....probably.

It's a Premier 19fbpr by Keystone. And yes it comes with all those things and it has a refrigerator too!

Connect into an existing 15 amp outlet,.......that is probably closer than the main panel anyway.