Expanding AC distribution panel
I'm looking at options for expanding the AC dist. on a Parallax 6300 dist. panel.
Forum Discussion
road-runner wrote:
I assume you have a load shed device to drop the water heater.dedicated appliances, fridge, microwave, AC HWH etc. are required to have their own seperate breaker.
My 30 amp rig came from the factory with the microwave and water heater on the same breaker, and the refrigerator is on the same circuit as the power converter and 4 outlets.
http://www.bestconverter.com/Automatic-Load-Shed
This could also work for the OP depending on conditions.- What are you working on and trying to accomplish?
Andonso wrote:
Article 551 of the NEC specifies in great detail the electrical requirements for RVs and also for RV parks in the US. There is nothing in the CEC or in any standards that apply to RVs built in Canada (are any now?) or for CGs here. The NEC has many cross-references to related standards/regulations like UL & NFPA and these are often recognized in Canada and if not, we have numerous CSA standards that apply. There is another entire article (section) in the NEC covering just mobile homes.
I'm uncertain of NEC codes for an RV which are probably required for RV manufacturing similar to automobile manufacturing requires to pass certain DOT regulations.
The issue I have is that in building construction there is oversight by electrical inspectors & engineers, but nothing when in comes to RVs. RV manufacturers can crank out RV after RV with electrical issues and there is nobody to ensure it's done correctly or safely and no authority having jurisdiction that you can file a complaint with. You can hire a master electrician or a monkey to do work on the RV you own and there's no need for a permit or inspection. If it burns down or you electrocute someone, that could be a different matter tho. Can't you just swap out breakers for a tandem type to get more circuits?
I made my own demand controller for the permanent electric heating I installed using a current sensing relay (adjustable type) installed in a separate elec. box.
CAPTCHA has got me today and give up trying to add more... :M Chris Bryant wrote:
Really the only practical way to upgrade is go to 50 amp service, and make the 6300 a sub panel.
One problem with 50 amp RVs is they often trip breaker panels in RV Parks with no 50 amp service. Normally 50 amp RVs will have an adapter for 30 amp service and the park may have warning signs not to run high wattage equipment such as air conditioning, etc.
50 amp RV would be great if you have a 50 amp service or are careful connecting to 30 amp service.- Do you want more power or are you talking yourself out of it?
How many breakers do you have? How many do you need? myredracer wrote:
What are you working on and trying to accomplish?
I lived in a RV full time for more than 25 years. The one I'm currently in is designed for travling, iirc it's a weekender. not really designed for full timing.
A better RV I lived in was made back in the 1950s, which was repaired and upgraded.
I have looked around at used RV's but haven't really found anything I would want for full timing. Most RV's are pretty much made the same with some differences.
A person who has sold RV's for 40+ years told me RVs most all are made cheaply using cheap parts unless you spend a little money such as e.g. 500k to over a million dollars.
If I were back on my own property I would probably build a cabin or house. However over the years since sold my property I've spent most of my savings on RVs and RV parks, which aren't cheap in comparsion owning your own property, even if your paying a parks monthly rate. Though a RV parks montly rate is likely to save you some money when compared to paying rent for an aparment or house.
Another possibility would be an older park model that could remodeled and replace all the appliances, plumbing, etc. Modern RV's are designed primarily for traveling and not full timing. I know quite a few full timers, most have fairly nice 5th wheels, which are ok but still primarily designed for traveling around.
For travling I'm fixing up an older B-class camper van.Andonso wrote:
myredracer wrote:
What are you working on and trying to accomplish?
I lived in a RV full time for more than 25 years. The one I'm currently in is designed for travling, iirc it's a weekender. not really designed for full timing.
What is your load requirement? More circuits for intermittent, seldom used loads or for say electric heat in the winter & higher demand than normal? A lot can be squeezed out of 30 amps depending on needs and 30 amps can be run continuous at 30 amps (unless a pedestal breaker is tired) and in fact can be run over 30 amps for a bit depending on how much over and for how long (it's how breakers work).time2roll wrote:
Do you want more power or are you talking yourself out of it?
How many breakers do you have? How many do you need?
My current Parallax 6300 pane has three breaker spaces.
here's a pic of a 6300, mine is installed directly on the floor under a bathroom sink. I'm planning on installing a new converter in a cupboard on the floor adjacent to the 6300. The new converter will require a 120 VAC three prong receptacle.
I've rented a rv space full time for the last 10 years and have a plastic storage shed and a cargo trailer. The shed has a 5 amp freezer of which I want to supply power from the RV's AC dist. panel or addon breaker. The cargo trailer I have it plugged into the RV AC outside receptacle to supply power to e.g. a battery charger where I maintain batteries not in use.
Also my converter went bad so I purchased Powermaster 75 amp PM4 to replace the PD9280 that no longer put's out DC.
So I need two single or a dual breakers min. 10amp and 15 amp for the freezer and converter.
The converter requires an AC receptacle outlet whereas the freezer can be wired directly to the breaker.
I'm thinking of removing and using the breaker in the 6300 that's for the AC (air cond.) or installing a small breaker panel underneath
such as e.g. a Homeline 70 Amp 2-Space 4-Circuit Indoor Flush Mount Main Lug Load Center with Cover
i.e. If I can find one small enough that will fit underneath or in the cupboard next to the converter.
Note: the 75 amp watt converter won't really need to ever damand 75 amps from AC as it's only going to be used primarily for 12 volt lighting and to run the frig. I picked it up used for the same or similar prica as a 35 amp. Currently the RV is connected to a 10 amp converter without any problem while charging two RV batteries.
If all your DC electrical needs is for lighting and and 12 volts to run an absorption frig. You can get away using a 10 amp converter or battery charger.Andonso wrote:
Chris Bryant wrote:
Really the only practical way to upgrade is go to 50 amp service, and make the 6300 a sub panel.
One problem with 50 amp RVs is they often trip breaker panels in RV Parks with no 50 amp service. Normally 50 amp RVs will have an adapter for 30 amp service and the park may have warning signs not to run high wattage equipment such as air conditioning, etc.
My point is that there is no reason to modify it unless you are having a higher amperage service. The NEC is pretty common sense about that. Trying to just add circuits to a 30 amp 120 volt service is just going to result in nuisance tripping.
Just because you have a 50 amp service doesn't mean you are going to use 12,000 watts, rather than the 3600 watts a 30 amp service has available.
FWIW, I'm very familiar with the NEC, and park wiring.myredracer wrote:
Andonso wrote:
myredracer wrote:
What is your load requirement? More circuits for intermittent, seldom used loads or for say electric heat in the winter & higher demand than normal? A lot can be squeezed out of 30 amps depending on needs and 30 amps can be run continuous at 30 amps (unless a pedestal breaker is tired) and in fact can be run over 30 amps for a bit depending on how much over and for how long (it's how breakers work).
My load requirement aren't great except when I need to use an electric pressure washer that likes to trip my breakers.
I have a 5 amp freezer, conveter, 12 volt lighting and 12 volts for the frigs.
In the winter I run a ceramic element electric heater with thermostat
on the low setting. As most electric heaters will blow 20 amp breakers for a 30 amp service when set to high.
I also have a Samsung 1300 watt convection oven that's 900 watt micro and 1300 convection. Hasn't caused any problem what so ever connected to the RV's microwave receptacle.
I'm planning on removing the batteries so the converter really only needed for dc lighting and the frig.- OK the story is starting to come together. I do not think you need any additional breakers. Although please confirm is that center breaker a two pole? Looks like one switch but connections for two branch circuits.
You can just cut the cord on the new converter and connect direct same as the old converter. If you prefer not to cut the cord consider a pigtail to plug into and just connect the pigtail same as the old converter.
Same goes for the 5 amp freezer. Just use the exterior outlet. Regardless of how many subpanels and additional breakers you add you are still limited to 30 amps. I would just rebalance the existing circuits to fit these in and make it work.
Above I posted a load shed device that can put two heavy items on one circuit. If it temporarily cuts off your converter or the electric water heater while you use the microwave I doubt you would even notice.
