Forum Discussion
MEXICOWANDERER
Jul 28, 2016Explorer
The charge rate at the batteries is sufficient. The JB series alternator like all other LN units, uses internal voltage sensing. Tiny red and black wires connect to positive and negative rectifier heat sinks respectively. The Diode Trio is external mounted between the white brush housing and rear alternator bearing. The trio only serves to turn the regulator on, and does not pass total rotor current.
DIASSEMBLY
The 7/8" rotor shaft has a woodruff key so you can hold the pulley and use a 15/16" socket to remove the pulley nut then washer.
The woodruff key must be removed to slide the rotor through the double wide 6305 front bearing. The Urea based bearing grease sometimes makes the sliding process difficult. Lacquer thinner works best to dissolve this grease but the entire snout of the alternator must be immersed to penetrate between the bearing and the shaft. This destructs the bearing which should be replaced anyway. Remove Pulley, fan, and spacer.
Use a 5/16" socket on the head of the case bolts and a 3/8" socket on the #10x32 nylock nuts on the rear of the alt. The alternator splits with the wide stator laminations staying with the REAR half of the case. Some separate easy, others need patient encouragement with a knife-edge flat screwdriver tapped into the space between the last stator lamination and front housing.
Separate the rear housing with stator from the front housing with rotor. The brushes will fall out now.
The rear Torrington type rear bearing should be replaced. You'll notice the LN slip rings are brass rather than copper. I like that. They are harder and wear better than copper.
Grab your camera and take several clear images of the inside of the REAR housing. Pay special attention as to how the 3 rectifier leads to the positive side and the three rectifier leads from the negative side thread their way up to the three stator connection screws (nuts) which are through-bolted through the plastic brush holder housing
Remove the three 3/8" nuts holding the three stator leads to the nuts above. Pry the stator ring terminals off these through bolts.
The stator is ready to be removed. Like before it will either almost fall out or you will need that knife edge screwdriver again. Remove the stator.
More images. Double check they are clear as crystal.
Remove the two voltage regulator wires using a 1/4" nut driver to remove the screws. The voltage regulator is now ready to yank out.
Undo the different size battery terminals. The bolts are carriage type. The positive outside nut is 1/2" the negative is 1/4". Slide the bolts out.
Remove the 2 1/4" head screws and hold down clamp for the yellow capacitor using a 1/4" nut driver. /Remove the capacitor.
Sometimes the bottom screws holding the rectifiers are flat blade slotted. Remove one screw. Carefully lift the rectifier and detach it's three ring terminals and wires from the same three studs as held the stator leads. The rectifier is black and arc shaped. CAUTION! There are insulators on both sides of the bottom mounting hole. Remove them, leave them in place, but do not lose them.
Try not to disturb too much the lay of the original rectifier to ring terminal wires. it makes for a good pattern to follow if you replace the rectifiers. Remember, new rectifiers need their wires trimmed and new flag terminals soldered on.
The rectifiers for the Leece 160-amp alternator are different from smaller amperage JB's and are not interchangeable. The individual rectifiers are not something you want to try and change. Buy the complete rectifier.
STUPID STUPID. Leece should NOT have painted the aluminum rectifier heat sinks but they did. Heat sinks should have been black anodized -grumble, snarf-
Assemble in reverse fashion.
Spin the almost reassembled rotor. if it catches on something, it will be on one of the rectifier wire leads. Take the housing apart and rearrange then clamp the two halves together and try again. MAKE SURE the housings are not slightly cocked on the stator lamination shelf. If necessary clamp tight with the through bolts. Patience Patience.
I've done 200-300 of these critters so I can reman one on my sleep. A couple of weeks ago a friend snorted when I mentioned the 10,000 units rebuilt. His reply: "Try 15,000 to 20,000. Remember the marathon 42 Delco units you did in a single day?"
Getting old. Too many things to remember...
DIASSEMBLY
The 7/8" rotor shaft has a woodruff key so you can hold the pulley and use a 15/16" socket to remove the pulley nut then washer.
The woodruff key must be removed to slide the rotor through the double wide 6305 front bearing. The Urea based bearing grease sometimes makes the sliding process difficult. Lacquer thinner works best to dissolve this grease but the entire snout of the alternator must be immersed to penetrate between the bearing and the shaft. This destructs the bearing which should be replaced anyway. Remove Pulley, fan, and spacer.
Use a 5/16" socket on the head of the case bolts and a 3/8" socket on the #10x32 nylock nuts on the rear of the alt. The alternator splits with the wide stator laminations staying with the REAR half of the case. Some separate easy, others need patient encouragement with a knife-edge flat screwdriver tapped into the space between the last stator lamination and front housing.
Separate the rear housing with stator from the front housing with rotor. The brushes will fall out now.
The rear Torrington type rear bearing should be replaced. You'll notice the LN slip rings are brass rather than copper. I like that. They are harder and wear better than copper.
Grab your camera and take several clear images of the inside of the REAR housing. Pay special attention as to how the 3 rectifier leads to the positive side and the three rectifier leads from the negative side thread their way up to the three stator connection screws (nuts) which are through-bolted through the plastic brush holder housing
Remove the three 3/8" nuts holding the three stator leads to the nuts above. Pry the stator ring terminals off these through bolts.
The stator is ready to be removed. Like before it will either almost fall out or you will need that knife edge screwdriver again. Remove the stator.
More images. Double check they are clear as crystal.
Remove the two voltage regulator wires using a 1/4" nut driver to remove the screws. The voltage regulator is now ready to yank out.
Undo the different size battery terminals. The bolts are carriage type. The positive outside nut is 1/2" the negative is 1/4". Slide the bolts out.
Remove the 2 1/4" head screws and hold down clamp for the yellow capacitor using a 1/4" nut driver. /Remove the capacitor.
Sometimes the bottom screws holding the rectifiers are flat blade slotted. Remove one screw. Carefully lift the rectifier and detach it's three ring terminals and wires from the same three studs as held the stator leads. The rectifier is black and arc shaped. CAUTION! There are insulators on both sides of the bottom mounting hole. Remove them, leave them in place, but do not lose them.
Try not to disturb too much the lay of the original rectifier to ring terminal wires. it makes for a good pattern to follow if you replace the rectifiers. Remember, new rectifiers need their wires trimmed and new flag terminals soldered on.
The rectifiers for the Leece 160-amp alternator are different from smaller amperage JB's and are not interchangeable. The individual rectifiers are not something you want to try and change. Buy the complete rectifier.
STUPID STUPID. Leece should NOT have painted the aluminum rectifier heat sinks but they did. Heat sinks should have been black anodized -grumble, snarf-
Assemble in reverse fashion.
Spin the almost reassembled rotor. if it catches on something, it will be on one of the rectifier wire leads. Take the housing apart and rearrange then clamp the two halves together and try again. MAKE SURE the housings are not slightly cocked on the stator lamination shelf. If necessary clamp tight with the through bolts. Patience Patience.
I've done 200-300 of these critters so I can reman one on my sleep. A couple of weeks ago a friend snorted when I mentioned the 10,000 units rebuilt. His reply: "Try 15,000 to 20,000. Remember the marathon 42 Delco units you did in a single day?"
Getting old. Too many things to remember...
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