Forum Discussion
- MEXICOWANDERERExplorerSorta remember writing a recommendation to try a SUBSTITUTE receiver first. Got me. It's been quite a day here. A dozen lengthy requests for LED headlight retrofits.
- jrkowalskiExplorerOk, I removed the spark plug but can't seem to find any information on it. The manual doesn't even identify which plug they recommend. The information on the plug is
LG NANDI
F6TC
27100
I can't even find a LG cross reference chart. Since it doesn't have an "R" in the model number, I am guessing it isn't a resitor plug? - CapnCampnExplorer IIII was going to suggest a resistor spark plug, as someone else did too - they're cheap too for a quick test, then you've also got a spare!
It's not quite as cheap of a test as just running the gen while not connected, but not bad. :)
I suppose step one would be check the existing plug to see if it is a resistor version.
Good Luck!
CC - jrkowalskiExplorerGdetrailer, it never occurred to me to run my truck radio while the generator is running. I will check that also. The radio is a Jensen & looks like a quality unit, but who knows? How does one "turn off the converter"? Do I just turn off the main shut off switch that is mounted on the trailer in my cargo space or would it actually be found on the converter unit itself? Thanks for your input.
- jrkowalskiExplorerhorton333, that never occurred to me, but makes sense. I will be picking up the trailer next week & will run the generator without it powering the trailer to see if the static is there or not. Thanks for that suggestion!
- GdetrailerExplorer III
horton333 wrote:
jrkowalski wrote:
It actually is NOT an inverter generator. My shore line connection is in the back of my 26' trailer and I ran the line out it's full length to get it away from the trailer. The station comes in strong & clear when running on battery power, but as soon as the generator is running, it is all static.
I didn't buy it just to run the radio, but would like to listen to it when the generator is running. I suspect I would get similar results from the TV or DVD player?
My last trailer had an onboard generator & I never experienced any issues with static for any of the audio/visual.
So it is radiated interference, which is much harder to fix. The metal 'tent' suggested can always work, but it's awkward and can be harder to make effective than it first seems (you may even have to drive a ground stake, awkward for a mobile vehicle).
As your's is not an inverter generator that radiated noise pretty much has to be the spark circuit radiating. By regulation they are supposed to have suppression of the noise, shielding or resistance. As others are suggesting you are going to have to improve that suppression. The easiest way is to add resistance to the high voltage line; if there is none now. This can be built into the plug or into the wire. You can buy resistive plug wire and cut to size and you can also buy a bulk resistor that will fit at the plug (or perhaps find a resistive plug that fits) and the choice depends on how long the wire is (longer wire has more resistance, more is better for reducing noise till there is too much and the motor does not work as well from lack of spark).
Did you by any chance change the spark plug, you may have switched to a non-restive plug. Another thing is if there is a shield over the wire make sure it is still connected to the metal frame, if it came loose then it will make things worse not better.
Good luck, these problems can be a pain to track down.
BEFORE jumping to conclusions and "butchering" the generator or constructing "Faraday" tents/shields perhaps one should take a couple of steps BACK!
The OP IS dealing with a RV STEREO!
RV stereos are not really well known for quality of any sorts..
OP should FIRST try checking the RFI with a KNOWN GOOD RADIO..
The OPs vehicle radio could be used while the generator is running and see if that radio has the SAME "static".
If the same static appears on the vehicle radio then the trouble most certainly is the generator (most likely ignition noise).
IF no noise is found on the vehicle radio then the trouble could be A CHEAP RV RADIO or something between the generator head and the CONVERTER (IE converter may not like the AC power waveform from the generator).
To test the converter/generator waveform theory one just needs to TURN OFF THE CONVERTER while running the generator and see if noise clears up!
If noise is still present with converter off and gen running AND no noise on a vehicle radio then the CHEAP RV RADIO is most likely the problem.. - horton333Explorer
jrkowalski wrote:
horton333, I appreciate your feedback. The generator is brand new with the original spark plug, I called the tech support line & they said they never heard of this issue and suggested a filter as well. They said generators produce "dirty" power. I read them their own language from the manual & let them know this was one of the reasons I bought it. "Our Platinum Portable Generators contain low
THD (Total Harmonic Distortion) alternator technology, which produces “Clean Energy”
with a Sine Wave Distortion of 5% or less! With this “Clean Energy,” all of your sensitive
tools and equipment can be powered safely, without the risk of damage!"
I will check the "shield" as you indicate to see if it came loose.
From everything you have said this is extremely unlikely to be conducted noise, so the THD is not really relevant. The radio seems to be receiving the noise directly as a radio frequency signal, not through the 115v line. To totally prove that is the case you could run the generator, but not connected to the trailer, while the radio is on battery power. You should still hear the noise even with no physical connection between the two. If you do have a chance to try that then try it with and without the 115V cable connected to the generator (but still not connected to the trailer). If the noise gets louder with the 115V cable attached then that could be a big clue as to how to solve this.
If the generator has a label that says it is 'FCC complaint' then you do have some recourse to the manufacturer as that would require them to have certified the amount of radiated power is at low levels. Depending on it's classification when sold it may not have an FCC label though. - MEXICOWANDERERExplorerWhat gets me is the E CAVEAT EMPTOR approach by the FCC with regard to rating receptor/receiver noise rejection. Foggy Bottom Of Ensconced Fools, spending billions annually while completely stupid (or arrogant) to consumer issues.
Yeah it means I would not be adverse to strict regulations governing inadvertent noise transmission from generating devices. Ignition secondary. Output noise transmission from connector cords. Oooooooo what a transmitter antenna.
Want to sell a radio receiver in the USA? Better meet minimum standards for RF and IF noise rejection. Of course this means "government" whose first duty is to make thyself indispensable. - westendExplorerGoogle "Faraday cage" and get an education on Radio Frequency Interruption.
Most likely cause of the FM interference is a non-resistive sparkplug or a solid state ignition module that is built to less than good specification.
The simplest experiment is to place a Faraday cage around the suspected producer (Mex's screen cages). If you place the generator at an axis opposed to the radio location, you could even try a tin sheet blocking the line of sight from radio to the generator. - MEXICOWANDERERExplorerBUZZZZZZZZZ HUMMMMMMMMMM WHINE 12-volt power is dirty. Use the PI filter
CRACKLING POPPING direct RF radiation. Try faraday type cage.
REMEMBER! This is important. Some radios are incredibly sensitive to input noise. Maybe trying a temporary substitution should be your first diagnostic step.
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