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BFL13's avatar
BFL13
Explorer II
Jul 28, 2019

Fridge Temp Control Question

I have a Dometic S630 absorption fridge from 1991. AFAIK newer ones work the same way. Apparently the freezer cools down and then eventually the fridge cools down to its proper temp range just above freezing.

This works ok when on propane. My 120v heater is irreparable.

When I use my jury-rigged AC method powering the 12v heater with 12v (15.2v actually to get the watts needed) from a converter on its 120v input, I get 200w instead of the 300w that the 120v heater would do.

With colder ambient outside, this 200w is enough to get the freezer cold enough, and the fridge part too, but now in summer, the fridge part only gets down to about 9C, which is too high for the job. Have to go to propane to get the fridge part down to its proper range.

Is there any way to increase the amount of cooling from the freezer part down to the fridge part? ( I have the eyebrow setting on "coldest" already) If there is, I would likely need to put it back the other way for when on propane so the fridge does not freeze, but one step at a time!

Thanks.
  • Speaking of the devil...Go to bryantrv.com find the troubleshooting for your fridge. It explains a bunch of stuff in it.

    The slider thing on the fins is the thermistor.
  • Chris Bryant wrote:
    Can you remove the 12 volt heater? A new 120 volt heater would fit. You can also just use a stainless hose clamp to clamp a new heater to the side of the boiler tube- pack insulation around it and it will work.


    Thanks! I will order a 120v heater and do that.
  • Can you remove the 12 volt heater? A new 120 volt heater would fit. You can also just use a stainless hose clamp to clamp a new heater to the side of the boiler tube- pack insulation around it and it will work.
  • The 120v heater element rusted out and is rusted stuck in, so there is no way to replace it. One of the guys here described how he got his out, but I don't dare try what he did. Great risk to the whole stack part on mine!

    The control board 12v limit is 15.4 so I have to stay under that with the converter's adjustable voltage. There is some voltage drop in the board, but can't be helped. If I by-pass the board and go DC direct to the element I lose temp control for when it should cycle.

    If I put 15v direct to the 12v heater, leaving it also connected to the board,(to avoid the voltage drop in the board) and "regular" 12-14v from another DC source to the board as when on propane, the controls would not work---but maybe they would?

    I don't know if the terminals for the 12v element on the board, when seeing the 12v would "back feed" the board, same as if the board were getting power from its regular 12v inputs.

    What does the slider thing on the fins in the fridge do? ISTR you can play with that, but I don't know which way to move it, if that is the key.

    PT--good memory on my fridge situation! I don't follow why your 12v would work any better when you have shore power, unless you mean it works with 13.6v and not with 12.6v? I get no joy with 13.6 into the board. It needs 15.2 to get enough to the element.
  • Enbethen,

    BFL13's electric heater is rusted into place. Hence it can't be replaced.
  • Hi BFL13,

    You would need to increase voltage to increase wattage.

    I know my fridge works ok on 12 volt--but ONLY when I'm plugged into shore power.
  • Why is the 120 volt not repairable?
    Service manual
    On 12 volt side make sure you are getting a good 12 volt power to the element not just to refer.

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