pianotuna wrote:
Hi dougrainer,
If I understand you correctly, #5 setting is (for example) 40 f. So the fridge will be in cooling mode until the fins are 40 f? Then it cycles " off".
But the sensor clips onto the cooling fins. They cool the fridge by convection of the air inside the cavity. So adding a fan may help to even out the temperature in the fridge?
I'm always grateful for your insights into these items. I do know that the Norcold from my 1987 RV appeared to work better than the Dometic in my 2005 RV.
Fin temp is 10 degrees COLDER than the temp in the refer. The Thermister senses the FIN metal temp. Now, HOW you pack the refer makes a BIG difference in how well it cools. You need at least 1 inch space on the back wall for convection air to flow UP that back wall and THRU the fins to remove the heat. Plastic ziplock bags and such inhibit this air flow if pushed against the back wall. I think you mentioned the Drain tube for the evap drain pan. Norcolds have a Check Valve installed in the end of that tube that stops outside hot air migration to the inside. Dometic's need that "P" trap loop to prevent that air migration, but I would bet 99 99/100 of Dometic installs do not have that P trap made. Yes, the small battery operated fan inside the refer blowing air up thru the fins will help a lot. Lots of variables on temp hold. How long you open the door. How OFTEN you open the door. Putting warm/hot items in the refer. WHAT your CG 120 line voltage is. WHY? Because most use the Auto function which will operate on 120 if 120 is connected. The Line Voltage can drop dramatically if you have lots of RV'ers and they have their Roof AC's on. The 120 element will NOT put out the required heat to cool the refer better/faster if the line voltage is below 115 volts. When your line voltage is low, run on LP until the line voltage increases. There are lots of variables that HOME appliances do not have to put up with, but RV appliances do. Having a DIGITAL 120 volt wall plug readout is a must for any RV'er. The plug in NEEDLE type voltage readouts are useless. They have too great an error range for accuracy. Doug