This is good extra info, see below.
waynefi wrote:
This is a brand new trailer. We saw the leak 3 times on a 10 day camping trip. The pump was on the entire time. It may be that the leak only happens when the water heater is on, but still not every time. The heater is nowhere close to the leak.
I’ve seen the leak twice in the week since the trip. Both times it happened like this: I decided to shower i the trailer to see if that caused the leak. I turned on the hot water, and waited. When I went back out, the spot was already wet. Dried it off, took a shower, and checked it again. No additional water after the shower.
In order to post a picture, I need to put it somewhere else on the web, and then link to it, right? I’m not sure where to put it.
On posting the pic, hoping someone will jump on on this, RV net has a new pic posting system you can use if you do not have your own photo hosting site. I have my own hosting site so I just link them in so I do not know the new RV net system.
But, I can help with the blue wording up in your response. First off, when the water heater heats/runs, the water in the piping and tank expands from thermal expansion. That expansion of the water has to go somewhere, in this case it builds pressure in the system OR it expands into the air cushion created inside the water heater. Not sure what brand water heater you have, Suburban or Dometic/Atwood but they both create an air cushion in the top of the heater when the water fills the "first" time from the heater being empty to help not create too much pressure.
Over time, use or towing down the road, that air cushion dissolves and then, there is no place for the thermal expansion of the water to go other then build pressure. And it can build pressure all the way to make the safety relief valve weep out water to relive the close 150psi pressure. As soon as you open any faucet, that pressure will drop almost instantly to normal pump pressure and then when using the shower or faucet the pressure is more normal.
The only way to re-create the air cushion is bleed off the pressure in the system, let the heater cool down some and drain out 2 to 3 quarts of water while having the safety relief valve open to allow air back in. Then let it refill with the pump and your good to go until the next time the air cushion dissolves. This is a standard RV issue when no expansion bladder tank is in the system.
The above process will only take care of high pressure that makes the relief valve weep. Go outside have a look at the relief valve and see if any water drips/drops are outside after you heat water from cold to hot. If there are no drips, then the expansion pressure is not getting up to 150psi, it may normally only go to 120 to 130 psi and not trip it. But the pump fittings are seeing that 120 - 130psi until any faucet opens.
That said, the water system should be able to handle that high expansion pressure and not drip, like your water pump is. Addressing the water heater expansion issue will not fix the issue at the pump, but now armed with this info, maybe try this. Let the heater cool down, run cold water through it if needed and then turn the heater back on while watching the dry paper towel trick. It may take a good 30 to 45 minutes if you have total cold water in the heater, but you can at least create the higher pressure even if it is not tripping the relief valve to see what is dripping at the pump. You can also check the relief valve for dripping when the heater shuts off. Just do not open a faucet or flush the toilet during this test until the test is over or you will loose all that higher pressure you created with the water heating.
Hope this helps and let us know how this comes out.
John