Furnace help

My guess is stuck sail switch but with info given it is only a guess

darsben wrote:
My guess is stuck sail switch but with info given it is only a guess

SOOO I have to express my ignorance.


What is the sail switch, and how do I open it up?

A sail switch is located near the squirrel cage. When the cage rotates the airflow causes a little sail like arm on the switch to move and close the switch. When the switch is closed the gas valve is then allowed to open provided all else is well.
I think the service manual for your furnace is located at

http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/hydroflameold2.
If not look through
http://bryantrv.com/docs.html
and see if the right one is listed

Lots of threads on this subject in this forum. I know, I started one a couple of months back. My heater was acting the same way, it turn out to be the circuit board. The sail switch and circuit board are the two most common problems with heaters.

Also - have you tried lighting your stove top burners? It will verify that you actually have propane gas and it will also tend to clear out air in the line which might otherwise prevent your furnace from starting.

Also if you are not plugged into 120 AC and your battery is low, the fan in then furnace will not run fast enough to activate/close the sail switch.

Dusty

glennemay wrote:
I have a hydroflame 79/80 in my 1996 Lance 11.5. It worked great last year before I unlocked her for the winter. I just put it back on and off course New England is not going to let go of cold nights. I need to get it workind get again.

The fan kicks on as it should. I have formed the instructions in the manual to a T with one exception. I do not have a valve that I can turn on and off on the gas line.

A I can assume is that this is some sort of automatic valve system that flows fuel when it needs to.

I get no ignition in the furnace athe all.


If anyone has any suggestions I am open. To almost anything.

Thanks

Thank you all for your suggestions. I did locate the wires to the sail switch. Unfortunately, I am unable to get to it because of it's location. It is in the rear of the furnace and I need to remove the unit from the camper.


So if I jump the wires for the sail switch it should open the valve?



I did check on the propane. Everything else works. Stove, water heater, fridge.




Thanks again.



Glenn

glennemay wrote:

glennemay wrote:
I have a hydroflame 79/80 in my 1996 Lance 11.5. It worked great last year before I unlocked her for the winter. I just put it back on and off course New England is not going to let go of cold nights. I need to get it workind get again.

The fan kicks on as it should. I have formed the instructions in the manual to a T with one exception. I do not have a valve that I can turn on and off on the gas line.

A I can assume is that this is some sort of automatic valve system that flows fuel when it needs to.

I get no ignition in the furnace athe all.


If anyone has any suggestions I am open. To almost anything.

Thanks

Thank you all for your suggestions. I did locate the wires to the sail switch. Unfortunately, I am unable to get to it because of it's location. It is in the rear of the furnace and I need to remove the unit from the camper.


So if I jump the wires for the sail switch it should open the valve?



I did check on the propane. Everything else works. Stove, water heater, fridge.




Thanks again.



Glenn

Yep jumping the sail switch wires together would allow flow IF the sail switch is bad.
Make the connection AFTER THE FAN is turning not before to minimize potential adverse outcomes.

This document is generic for both furnaces and water heaters.. I'm told I missed one possible error..

NOTE: THis is for Direct Spark Ignition Furnaces. If you have a pilot light (I suspect you do not) major mods are needed.

When the T-Stat calls for heat the control board starts the blower (1)
The blower blows closing the sail switch (2)
The control board then opens the gas valve (3) and begins sparking (4.1)
Gas Flows (5) And ignitets (4.2)
The flame heats the flame sensor (5)
The flame sensor sends .480 volts to the control board (6)
which then detects the .480 and continues operation (*)
When the T-stat says "Enough already" (RV is now warm)
The control board shuts off the gas flow (*)
and then turns off the blower after a cool down (*)

*: At nearly every step the control board is involved. IF IT IS BAD, things will not work.. I recommend replacement boards from Dinosaur boards.. When Mine went out the Dino board was less than half the price and when opened the box the quality of construction and workmanship, and then design was very clear to my trained eyes.

1: No 12 volt to furnace, blower motor shot
2: Low 12 volt, air ducts clogged, blower "obstructed" bad sail switch
3: Bad solenoid, Clogged Gas Jet
4: .1: Bad ignition circuit (high voltage) on control board. .2: Points too wide (Very common it seems)
5: These do not often fail but they can
5: Bad connection, NOTE:
5 and * Bad wire.

* applies to all steps by the way So does bad wire/connection.

I will not read all long replies here,
but comparing pilot -light appliance to one having ignition/control board is like comparing carburetor car to one having digital fuel control and knock sensor on each cylinder.
Or like comparing rolling pin to bread machine.