generator size for A/C

OP here...Thanks everyone, learned a lot.
Thanks again

Unyalli wrote:
Coleman Power Saver (PS) vs the standard Coleman Plus (+).

Thanks for posting what looks like a scan-in comparing the spec sheets for the two models of Coleman RV air conditioners.

However a very important detail was left out of the scan. Notice that on the 2nd line from the bottom of the scan it says "Generator Size". We need the rest of the scan where it talks about the recommended generator size for each model. :)

Hi JiminDenver,

I'll let you know how the new psw magnum inverter handles the genny and air conditioner. I'll be able to "dial in" the maximum input power. It would be nice to stay in eco mode on the yamaha 3000 sIEB.

The Yamaha by itself will start the air, in eco mode--but the voltage drops to 96. I'm not at all comfortable with that. I'm thinking I'll "dial in" 1300 watts and let the battery bank and magnum inverter handle the start up surge.

If that doesn't work, I'm planning now that the warranty period is over on the genny, that I'll add the after market remote from Pinellas Power that has the ability to switch the generator from eco to regular. Once the air was up and running I could switch it back to eco.

JiminDenver wrote:
Having a AC that uses less power would be nice

Coleman Power Saver (PS) vs the standard Coleman Plus (+).



Atwood 16k btu equivalent (13.5) is 1275 watts.

Jeff

NinerBikes wrote:

MrWizard wrote:
When I measured the A/C power draw it was 12 amps
Your A/C might be different

My Dometic 13.5k BTU draws 12.5 Amps continuous, but pulls 20 amps at start up, with a fully charged battery bank. So you need to get your charger out of bulk charge mode before you attempt to start up the AC if you pair an Eu2000i with an Eu1000i to get the AC started.

I don't think it's a good idea to run an AC off of a single Eu2000i once started, that air cooled motor works too hard to keep the AC and fan going, far too close to it's 1600 watts continuous rating.

It's easier to shut the converter off and let the generators full abilities work with the AC. Due to altitude our generator is marginal to run both even after the battery has charged for a hour. I turned off the converter and it doesn't even burb when the AC goes on.

Having a AC that uses less power would be nice because a 3000w inverter generator could run it and stay in eco mode and much quieter. A 2000 being pushed isn't really all that quiet.

otrfun wrote:

MrWizard wrote:
When I measured the A/C power draw it was 12 amps
Your A/C might be different

I assume you're referring to a 13,500 BTU a/c? I have a 2012 Dometic 13,500 BTU roof-mount a/c and mine draws 12 amps with the fan on high. FWIW, in-rush current (compressor start-up) is approx. 60 amps!

CORRECT... on mine lock rotor amps was 54amps

i simply meant to show a 1000w was way too small
and a 2000w is Marginal in the best situation

MrWizard wrote:
When I measured the A/C power draw it was 12 amps
Your A/C might be different

My Dometic 13.5k BTU draws 12.5 Amps continuous, but pulls 20 amps at start up, with a fully charged battery bank. So you need to get your charger out of bulk charge mode before you attempt to start up the AC if you pair an Eu2000i with an Eu1000i to get the AC started.

I don't think it's a good idea to run an AC off of a single Eu2000i once started, that air cooled motor works too hard to keep the AC and fan going, far too close to it's 1600 watts continuous rating.

MrWizard wrote:
When I measured the A/C power draw it was 12 amps
Your A/C might be different

I assume you're referring to a 13,500 BTU a/c? I have a 2012 Dometic 13,500 BTU roof-mount a/c and mine draws 12 amps with the fan on high. FWIW, in-rush current (compressor start-up) is approx. 60 amps!

When I measured the A/C power draw it was 12 amps
Your A/C might be different