Georgie Boy Pursuit electrical problem

Most aluminum "de-oxidizers" are a farce.

Please provide intelligent affirmation that straight 100% pure COSMOLINE does anything but coat aluminum.

I've tried meaning ran experiments with many products UNDER LOAD.

The solitary brand that did anything at all, did it well

CAIG DeOxit D100


This got kicked off many years ago with a Weller D500 260-watt soldering gun. Wouldn't work --- wouldn't work. Change tips -- tighten the snot out of the screws in the ALUMINUM gun feeder barrels --- ZIP

D-R-O-W-N-E-D

The gun's aluminum tubes with money badly spent at a Home Depot using an aluminum "De-Oxidizer" that set me back almost eight dollars.

The hyped product was left in the barrels FULL TO THE BRIM for 4-5 days then emptied.

Brand new Weller brand tip installed

Deader than an upside down horse

Tried CAIG De-Oxit D100 for the first time.

Instant results. Gun ran perfectly.

Ran watts TEST on BACKUP D-100 Weller gun

Watts increased about 30%

Tip heated up much faster

Want misery? ATTEMPT to clean the bores of a Weller soldering gun.

THEN

It was confirmation time

Scrap oxidized aluminum

Floods of the cosmoline product

With threads screw down a wire stub using a stainless steel bolt

Then amping the krap out of the connection

Verifying with infrared readings and lab benchtop meters

The cosmoline is a joke

The De-Oxit works

Tell that to the regulatory bodies

The difference between the two compounds is not subtle it is outrageous

Aluminum MUST be plated with Sn to "work" (tin). Copper, silver or gold will also prevent an Cu/Al fire.

I could care less if Hungarian Hog Snot prevented Cu/Al disaster

But I know this

The De-Oxit D100 has been in that gun for 5 years, with 4 tip changes.
And it still draws 247 watts at 120vac
And the garbage in the white bottle, red seal and black print on the bottle was hurled out the back window. Because

It
Does
Not
Work

Just tightening is not always the best way of going. need to inspect the conductor for burning. If that exists, cut the dark portion off, strip insulation coat with electrical de-ox grease and re-terminate.
Most buss bars are aluminum. Coating with de-ox prevents or reduces the oxidation of the aluminum.

i fixed a problem lik that in mine using Matt's procedure. One neutral wire needed tightening.

Many RVs use this type of receptacles
The back portion can come loose and allow the NM cable to come off the small pins.

Hi Matt,

Nice directions for the OP!

2.

This sort of thing happens a lot in my own and other coaches like mine. This is just a real good first try. What I think you should is simple safe and really quite easy. You will need a flashlight and a good screw driver or three. If you don't have a head-mounted light, this is a little tougher unless you have a friend.

It important that you disconnect any line power sources to the coach and if you have an inverter, shut that down as well.

Open the main breaker box. When you look at the individual breakers, each will have a wire or two that go to a screw terminal. Try to tighten all those. Now look around in the box and find two bars with screws that are full of bare or white wires. Tighten all those screws too.

When you have done that, look at the receptacles (outlets) and start closest to the panel. Remove the center screw that holds the cover and then the two screws top and bottom and pull the receptacle clear of the box.

Now we get a little interesting. Most receptacle have 5 screws. I hope that the wires are under those screws. In a mobile installation, they are supposed to be. If they are, do the same screw tightening routine that you are now so practiced at doing. If the wires are not under screws, pull on each and if one comes out, put it back under a screw. White wires go under the silver screws and black go under the brass.

The receptacles are all "Daisy Chained" so, when you open the first, it will have two black, two white and two bare wires. One set feeds power to that receptacle and the other set goes on to the next.

When you find receptacles with two push buttons, those are GFIs (now called GFCI, but I am that old). Any of those could be open as in tripped or just plain bad. So, put everything back together and power up the unit and see were you are.

My bet is that you will find loose screws. It only takes one to shut down a branch. There are live circuit detectors that are not expensive, but they require that the circuit be live and then they can lie to you and tell you it is good when it is not.

When you are trying to decide if this is worth it, just remember that you would be paying some jamoke at an RV shop a lot of money to do this.

Happy Hunting

Matt

I have also seen intermittent issues caused by improper wiring. I found that sometimes, the person wiring things gets in a hurry and pinches some insulation in the terminal at the breaker. With the insulation pinched, sometimes the circuit works, sometimes it doesn't.

Look for another GFCI receptacle.
When you checked one in bath, did you trip it and then reset it? If it reset it is getting power. That does not mean the feed through feature is working.
Do you have one of the small yellow receptacle tester? If not get one. This will help diagnose issue.

do you have and inverter ?
no power to the TV etc.. and kitchen ?

check the inverter, check for overload reset and/or tripped push button breakers on the inverter