Hand held 120VAC pedestal tester?

I've found that it's unlikely to find a pedestal voltage problem with any of the above suggestions.

rockhillmanor wrote:
You think a volt meter does not show voltage coming from a pedestal outlet?

Of course it does, after all that's the whole point. :R Once I see unloaded source voltage hovering as low as 110 vac that's when I start thinking about not plugging in as my own trailer load is only going to worsen the situation, especially on a hot summer day when countless other A/C units are also loading down the system. Obviously my Progressive EMS will automatically make this decision for me but these voltage dongles do serve a purpose in that one can use it to check campsite source power before dragging out all one's main service cable, then having to put it away when it's discovered the source supply is inadequate, for whatever reason.

I've found that it's unlikely to find a pedestal voltage problem with any of the above suggestions.

You think a volt meter does not show voltage coming from a pedestal outlet
?
I have several times especially in older CG's during the summer months when everyone has their ac on. I just leave and find another CG for the night in that situation.

And... when I stayed at a friends house in Florida in winter. Found out that when a cold snap hits the power company brown outs everyone to accommodate everyone using their heat in levels higher than normal. That volt meter was in the lower end of red the entire 3 days and when the temps went back up boom I had the correct strong 120.

I've found that it's unlikely to find a pedestal voltage problem with any of the above suggestions. Adding a load like a ceramic heater and checking the voltage would help. However that also doesn't ensure good voltage later.

Nothing beats a full function power protector like the Progressive Industries units. First they won't connect the rig to shore power if there is any problem at that point. Then they continue to monitor and will disconnect as required. Sure it's more $$ than the 3 light tester but a lot less than replacing your rig electronics plus the ruined camping experience.

The above suggestions will certainly help find some pedestal issues. The 50/20 or 50/30 plus 30/20 adapters are also a good test even for a 50A rig since it at least tests 3 of the 4 50A wires.

I do the same as rockhill manor. I have had this contraption for 10 years. I use it before plugging in even though I have a built-in PI unit.

You folks are awesome.

Think I'll follow in IAMICHABOD's footsteps. Already have some of the bits and a 50to30A adapter.

Thanks all ...

Not sure how others handle this, but pedestals normally have the 30 amp receptacle installed with the ground pin on the top so that your shore power cord hangs downward. If you use a 30-15 amp puck adapter like in the photo below, the ground pin is on the top so that when you plug the tester in, it's upside down. I bought a commercial grade Greenlee tester like in 2nd pic, but doubt it matters much what you get.

A 15/20 amp recept. is just about always installed with the ground pin on the bottom and when you use a 3-light tester, the indicating lights are on the top. Trying to read the tester upside down at a pedestal is not easy, esp. if in the bright sun.

So I'd say get a pigtail type 30 to 15 amp adapter. You *could* plug into the 15/20 amp recept. in a pedestal but then the 30 amp recept. could have a problem that you wouldn't pick up.

As mentioned above, the more common pedestal issue is that the receptacles are simply in bad condition and can have loose internals and/or the contact surfaces can be pitted and dirty causing a poor connection. Sometimes you can tell by just looking at them from 10' away... If you are lucky enough to have a 50 amp pedestal, use that instead of the 30 amps (if so equipped) with a 50/30 adapter .

j-d wrote:

The puck adapter linked above.

Which in turn forces any device with a standard 15 amp U Gnd male plug to be upside down - ergo, the reason I built my own adapter (illustrated in my earlier post) that allows any device to be plugged in right side up. :B

IAMICHABOD wrote:
I also use my 50amp to 30amp adapter to check the 50amp side. Sometimes I like them better as the are in better shape.

I do that too. I put a new male plug on the RV cable, took the soft rubber female end off the 50 ==> 30 adapter, and replaced it with a box with a righteous 30A pedestal receptacle. Much better contacts than on an extension cord. I'm trying to reduce my exposure to damaged 30A pedestal receptacles. Also gets me around 30A pedestal breakers that have gone "Soft" and trip way below 30.

We had an electrician called to our shore station for an open ground. All of us were parked in the rain on water soaked ground using the same shore station. No one wanted to plug in.

He came out and started ranting about RV'ers complaining all the time about nothing and that there was NO open ground.

Plugged in the tester and asked him to explain why it was showing open ground? He stormed off, manger came out opened up the whole shore station and repaired it and apologized.

For about 2 bucks for the tester, I think it's a good investment to have one on board an RV. :C