Honda 2000

Most posters are giving their opinions based on RV A/Cs. The OP has a portable A/C. My first Eu 2000 was purchased to run the small window unit that our new Casita TT came with. I think it was on the order of 11K BTU. The Eu2000 would bog down (eco mode off) when the unit would first turn on and go into overload. There was no problem when running it off line ac power.

This same generator has no problem with our Coleman 13.5K BTU RV A/C on our current RV.

I suspect the surge current on some non RV units may be higher.

Dick

Hunh. But all that other stuff runs silently off propane?
I guess I'm a bit jealous that you consider a $1000 solution in the same vein as a $10 solution!

No I didn't. But that's ok. With the twins, I can run everything, including hot water heater and refrigerator plus the AC.

Hybridhunter wrote:

Atlee wrote:
My single Honda EU2000i would start my 13.5 BTU at 200 ft above sea level. It would not at 2k feet above sea level.

I ended up buying a 2nd 2000i and now have no problems.

Did you try hard start cap first?

jrnymn7 wrote:
Have you hugged your eu2000i today?

I massaged my Eu1000i's main jet and pilot jet last week with some GumOut carb cleaner spray in an aerosol can, and washed and oiled the air filter too, before bolting it all back together.

Runs great, now.

Have you hugged your eu2000i today?

Atlee wrote:
My single Honda EU2000i would start my 13.5 BTU at 200 ft above sea level. It would not at 2k feet above sea level.

I ended up buying a 2nd 2000i and now have no problems.

Did you try hard start cap first?

My single Honda EU2000i would start my 13.5 BTU at 200 ft above sea level. It would not at 2k feet above sea level.

I ended up buying a 2nd 2000i and now have no problems.

I was more commenting on the fact that many seem to think running anything more than 5 amp load is somehow detrimental to the life of the eu2000i. The Mach 1 starts up so smooth with the built in start kit, it should be a total non issue. My 1200/1500 watt champion generator starts, and gets back up to 120 volts within 3 seconds. give it another 5 and the compressor gently loading up overloads the unit by slowly dragging down the voltage. It runs a little over 11 amps before it tapers off back to under 10.

Hybridhunter wrote:
Well I'm in the market for a new gen to run my Coleman Mach 1 PS; at 10 amps running with built in start kit. I don't see why an eu2000i would be an issue. If it can start it, run it, and keep the voltage where it needs to be, it's a good fit IMO.

IMO, "running" amps is not the primary concern when using the EU2000i to run an RV a/c. The primary, go, no-go, issue is inrush, startup amps, specifically LRA (locked rotor amps). Hypothetically, you could have an RV a/c that needs 10 amps to "run"---well within the 13.3 amp capability of the EU2000i. However, if the startup/LRA current for this RV a/c is 55-60 amps, then the "running" amp spec is moot since you'll never be able to start it with an EU2000i.

The typical "running" current for most 13.5k RV a/c's is approx. 10-14 amps---most would agree this is well within the capability of an EU2000i. However, the EU2000i is not capable of "starting" many of these units because their startup/inrush/LRA current requirements exceed the capability of the EU2000i.

n7bsn wrote:
One will usually start a 13,000 btu unit (soft-start, yada, yada)
My -guess- is yes

My EU2000 would start and run my 13.5 AC on my old trailer. But it did it at wide open throttle. Probably ok with a 11K.