Honda 2000I versus Cpe 2000 inverter
I just weigh a Honda with full gas tank 53.2# Also weigh my cpe 2000 with full gas tank 55.6# I cannot tell the difference by lifting them For practical purposes they are the same heigh...
Forum Discussion
MrWizard wrote:
IIRC
there is a slight difference in our converters
You snipped a resistor ? In yours and it is always at your set voltage point
While mine has not been snipped, and runs approximately 1v higher than set point for the first ten minutes after powered on
I don't think that matters here, not sure. It is battery voltage that counts, not the converter's voltage setting, so in the first minutes of a recharge battery will not get very far along either way.
With it OEM, to get 14.5v Vabs, you can set 14.5 first, then after it drops to 13.5 crank it back up to 14.5. With R1 snipped, you just set 14.5 and it stays there. It goes up to 15.5 so you could set it to that instead, and after it drops it will be 14.5 and stay there.
Apparently that feature was at the request of car dealer showroom guys. Don't know why they wanted that. Perhaps to act like alternators?
The LK models that came out later have the pot you get at through a hole in its casing. Not as handy as the external knob, but OTOH the LK goes to 16.5v instead of just 15.5. With 16+ you can meet equalizing specs for Wet batts eg.
I thinned out my notes on tests I ran, so not much data to help with this. I never got any Kill-A-Watt readings after amps tapered during Absorption and battery voltage still rising.
Battery voltage vs converter voltage has voltage drop too depending on the amps, so that could be another reason to just look at input side /gen draw for comparisons.
