How do you remove self-tapping screws from RV frame?

Not worth taking them out in my book. I'd drill new holes, drone the old ones off flush, and put some paint or sealant over them if you're concerned about rust.

fj12ryder wrote:
Almost a minute to go through 1/4" cold roll, sure it didn't melt it's way through? :)

You do the same test and report back. I do understand that 50 seconds out of a lifetime is way too much of a burden.

Almost a minute to go through 1/4" cold roll, sure it didn't melt it's way through? :)

dbbls wrote:

Lynnmor wrote:

RinconVTR wrote:


Masonry bits wont touch metal...doesnt matter what they are made of...forget that.

Last resort, if you insist on not making new holes with new screws (which I dont understand) buy couple 1/8"-3/16" carbide ball end mills from McMaster. They will get that screw out, but it will still be tricky alignment.

Masonry drills have carbide tips. Yes, carbide will cut metal. The cheap masonry drills sometimes need to be sharpened.

I have never used a concrete bit that would drill steel. Don't think they exist. When you hit a rebar while drilling in concrete you are stopped.

Thought maybe I was losing it in my old age. So I went to my tool & die shop that I ran for the past 30 years and did a test. Using a 3/16" cheap masonry drill running at 2000 RPM, I drilled through a 1/4" thick piece of cold rolled steel in 50 seconds. It made a very neat hole as well. But what do I know, I only worked in the trade for just over a half a century.

RinconVTR wrote:

joebedford wrote:
The screws are (I'm guessing) about #10 self tapping. The I-beam frame is tapered thickness but I'd guess where the screws go through it's about 1/4" thick steel.

#10 thru 1/4" steel? Not likely. That's too thick. 1/8" may be?

I just checked:

I bought the same size screws as the factory used: #10 self-tapping

Put a tape measure on the edge of the steel I-beam: 5/16"

I second the method of grinding them off flush with the frame, then driving them through with a punch or air hammer. Wear eye protection.

Magic screw extractors are useless. If the screw wasn't strong enough to break itself free, what makes you think something made from LESS metal is going to do it?

Penetrating oils need time to work, if the part is rusted. Rust isn't your primary issue here. Galling is. When those types of screws go in, there's always some thread damage. Galled threads don't respond to penetrating oil.

Lynnmor wrote:

RinconVTR wrote:


Masonry bits wont touch metal...doesnt matter what they are made of...forget that.

Last resort, if you insist on not making new holes with new screws (which I dont understand) buy couple 1/8"-3/16" carbide ball end mills from McMaster. They will get that screw out, but it will still be tricky alignment.

Masonry drills have carbide tips. Yes, carbide will cut metal. The cheap masonry drills sometimes need to be sharpened.

I have never used a concrete bit that would drill steel. Don't think they exist. When you hit a rebar while drilling in concrete you are stopped.

RinconVTR wrote:


Masonry bits wont touch metal...doesnt matter what they are made of...forget that.

Last resort, if you insist on not making new holes with new screws (which I dont understand) buy couple 1/8"-3/16" carbide ball end mills from McMaster. They will get that screw out, but it will still be tricky alignment.

Masonry drills have carbide tips. Yes, carbide will cut metal. The cheap masonry drills sometimes need to be sharpened.

joebedford wrote:
The screws are (I'm guessing) about #10 self tapping. The I-beam frame is tapered thickness but I'd guess where the screws go through it's about 1/4" thick steel.

#10 thru 1/4" steel? Not likely. That's too thick. 1/8" may be?

Anyway, you either punch out the old screw or drill it out. But as mentioned, some sefl tappers are harder than your standard screws.

Masonry bits wont touch metal...doesnt matter what they are made of...forget that.

Look for screw removal kits that come with a drill bit, or drill/removal tool combo bit.

Last resort, if you insist on not making new holes with new screws (which I dont understand) buy couple 1/8"-3/16" carbide ball end mills from McMaster. They will get that screw out, but it will still be tricky alignment.

The screws are (I'm guessing) about #10 self tapping. The I-beam frame is tapered thickness but I'd guess where the screws go through it's about 1/4" thick steel.