U-bracket for WD bars ... issue with self tapping screws

UPDATE: First, the system I have is EZ LIFT by Camco. Second, I went through the install instructions and they never mention needing or adding the bolts to the bracket on the TT frame. And, as I've said, the dealer put the screws in.

Bottom line: I'm leaving it be. The brackets have not moved (indicator is the paint on the a-frame...it's not scratched or showing signs of movement).

BarneyS wrote:

Nvr2loud wrote:

And just to add to your statement... sometimes bolting those brackets can solve sliding problems. I do not have heavy tongue weight (approx 900 lbs) but my brackets would not stay in position at all. No matter how tight the set bolts were secured, those darn brackets just kept sliding during slightly tight turns. I had to undo the bars for even small turns due to the sliding brackets for my first couple of trips. Since drilling and bolting, they have never had a chance to move again.

That is quite unusual and is one of the reasons for having a minimum of 5 links under tension and vertical - more is even better. Doing this gives the chains plenty of room to swing back and forth without dragging the snap-ups with them. Do you remember how many links you had between the bars and the snap-ups?
Barney

6 links on that truck, 5 links on my current truck. The dealer even gave me two new snap-up brackets but that didn't solve the problem. A drill and a few bolts / nuts / washers took care of that in a hurry. I drilled them out four seasons ago now and no issues to report since.

Nvr2loud wrote:

And just to add to your statement... sometimes bolting those brackets can solve sliding problems. I do not have heavy tongue weight (approx 900 lbs) but my brackets would not stay in position at all. No matter how tight the set bolts were secured, those darn brackets just kept sliding during slightly tight turns. I had to undo the bars for even small turns due to the sliding brackets for my first couple of trips. Since drilling and bolting, they have never had a chance to move again.

That is quite unusual and is one of the reasons for having a minimum of 5 links under tension and vertical - more is even better. Doing this gives the chains plenty of room to swing back and forth without dragging the snap-ups with them. Do you remember how many links you had between the bars and the snap-ups?
Barney

BarneyS wrote:



As far as bolting the brackets on, most of the instructions for installation do not say to bolt the brackets on as it is usually not necessary. However, in discussions with the hitch manufacturers, several of our members have been told to bolt them on to solve bending problems on their high hitch weight trailer.

And just to add to your statement... sometimes bolting those brackets can solve sliding problems. I do not have heavy tongue weight (approx 900 lbs) but my brackets would not stay in position at all. No matter how tight the set bolts were secured, those darn brackets just kept sliding during slightly tight turns. I had to undo the bars for even small turns due to the sliding brackets for my first couple of trips. Since drilling and bolting, they have never had a chance to move again.

Path,
Just in case you or someone else has not seen it, we have an excellent sticky thread on setting up the WD hitch here. It will take you, step by step, with many additional links to other relevant sites, on setting up your hitch. It also has some good photos and tips on some sway control devices (mostly friction and Dual Cam).

Incidentally, just because somebody at E-trailer says something does not make it gospel.:W
Barney

OK...Maybe I said it wrong or not enough detail. Yes, my bar has 9 links total and yes I had to go outside and count them. When I hook up I have 3 loose links at the top (not under tension). I hook up to the 4th link which makes a total of 6 links under tension to the bar. When all hooked up the bars are parallel to ground, just like picture.

This set up came with the used TT. And I know it's a cheap set up. According to saleslady old owner traded it in because "it swayed to much and didn't feel safe" and old owners TV was a one ton, ours is a 3/4 ton and will need more "umph". Saleslady was convinced I need bigger bars because my TV was smaller.

Saleslady calls parts dept to see if they will throw in some 1200 bars. Parts said they didn't have any 1200 bars in stock. Later next week I call e-trailer to check out 1200 bars and about a different type elec plug. That's when I found out this brand doesn't have 1200 bars at least for my model.

So thought I'd see just how much "sway" there was. Also saleslady IMO has "sway" mixed up with weight dist as she kept using both terms interchangeability in the same sentence.

We were her second sale, her first sale was a new 5th wheel she sold the old owner of our TT only 2 days prior. Which makes her second sale to us what old owners traded in, on their new 5th wheel. She divulged way to much. She was new at selling and admitted it, also a great person. We would buy from her again if we ever do.

Anyway bought TT and on the way home made a 100 mile trip out of it to see how it handled. I thought it handled good.

But we have the intension of getting a Hensley or pro-pride if any problems. We're just back from a trip from Seattle to Yuma and back again and side trips in-between. Total of around 4,000 miles total and had zero problems towing. TT did come with a sway bar that doesn't make that really doesn't make that big of difference. But we had great towing weather also. Biggest side wind we had was maybe 10 mph but mostly a headwind wind. So the opinion is not closed on a Hensley or pro-pride yet. We will see when we get into a good size side wind if we need to do anything.

Thanks for posting. I never paid attention that I had 9 links before. I just know I leave 3 loose at the top and hook to 4th link. So that makes link number 4 thru 9 under tension (total of 6)

(Almost forgot saleslady also made it a point to show us their "Employer support of Guard and Reserve" plaque. Sort made us feel good).

Sorry dup

path1 wrote:
Snip...

We must have different brands... Mine say nothing about mounting the brackets being bolted or five links. I call e-trailer when I first got this set up, and was informed that some TT's have a problem with propane tank holder hitting if not bolted down and others just feel happier bolted down.

http://manuals.adventurerv.net/Eaz-Lift-Weight-Distribution-Hitch-Elite-Instructions.pdf

"AFTER HOOKING UP
Spring bar should be parallel with trailer frame, or a slight angle up or down." says nothing about five links.

I'd rather not drill holes in my A frame.

Look at the bottom of P.3 of those instructions. In the section titled "Wrong" just below the section you quoted, it says.
"Readjust degree of tilt on ball mount, if you have
more than 5 links of chain hanging free. The number
of links should be the same on both bars."

A normal WD bar has 9 links of chain on it. If you have 5 hanging free (as stated in their instructions) then you only have 4 "under tension". You should have a minimum of 5 so that would mean you could only have 4 links "hanging free".
They are telling you that you need to have 5 links minimum under tension - just as I said.

We don't talk "hanging free" because that is not clear to a lot of people, plus some chains have more than 9 links. When we talk about "links under tension" there is no doubt as to what is meant. The reason for the minimum of 5 under tension is as I stated in my previous post.

As far as bolting the brackets on, most of the instructions for installation do not say to bolt the brackets on as it is usually not necessary. However, in discussions with the hitch manufacturers, several of our members have been told to bolt them on to solve bending problems on their high hitch weight trailer.

By the way, I am not trying to argue with you but stating these things for others also that many not quite understand. :)
Barney

Thanks for the feedback. To answer a few questions, the two small screws holding the "snap up" or "u bracket" were put in at the dealer. Last TT I had did not use them or have them (the screws that is).

I agree about putting a bolt all the way through. And, I agree about the cheap quality of the fasteners with just about anything today...many things we buy I end up buying better fasteners from the local ACE hardware vs. what it came with.

The bracket has not moved on the frame rail. I suspect the original reason it failed (head popped off) was from a slight motion in a turn. The second (as it was being installed) was from just a cheap bolt.

myredracer wrote:

westend wrote:
Those self-tapping/self threading bolts are the devil. Seems to be the way of the world with fasteners these days. I see many different fasteners in different products and most of them are so soft that any extra force tears them up instantly. I assume that these soft-body fasteners are imported from overseas but I don't give US mfgs any more respect than what they deserve, either.

Especially on the smaller sizes.
Just replaced the ones in the tongue area, only to have one break less than a week later. Pffft. At least the tips have a flat that you can use a wrench on to remove.

The other bad thing about them is the plating quality. They rust in no time flat. Most of the ones under our TT were rusty less than a year. Probably getting it delivered in the winter doesn't help with salt on the road. Another project some day will be replacing them, maybe with stainless. But are stainless steel just as weak?

Have you installed a screen door on your house lately? the fasteners included are barely adequate. This is with a $300 door! Yeah, plating is bad, too. So is galvanization. I have a 75 yr. old steel lifeboat project in my yard. The galvanized hull plate looks like it was made last year, not a spot of rust. Take a new galvanized pipe and place it outdoors. It will look like an exhaust pipe in two years. There is just a bad shift to poor quality in all metal working, IMO.