How do you remove self-tapping screws from RV frame?

I've decided to ignore the problem for the time being. Yesterday I shot a dozen or 15 new screws beside all the ones that have snapped off or where the tin has broken.

So this winter if you see a rather large toy hauler on the side of the road with a broken frame, it's probably mine.

Ignite the undercoating?

Quote:
How do you remove self-tapping screws from RV frame?
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Very simple answer, if the metal is over 10 ga, You DON'T !

If I absolutely had to, I'd spot heat the screw red hot w/ a torch, let it cool kinda slow, which will anneal it.....making it drillable.
Or cooling it fast, will shrink it, and it mite remove easily.

And now all the raving can start about what the heating may do to the frame......:R

Yes, they're #10. Almost every screw holding the tin trim has snapped off.

I would assume you are talking about small self-tappers like say #8 or #10? They can break easily - I've found a couple snapped off in battery tray angle iron.

Another option, if small screws, is to just take a punch and push them out. Then use a larger screw in the same hole. If worried about too many holes, maybe you could get them filled in with a MIG welder?

I tried a few stainless steel screws in the battery and propane trays and they are even more brittle than the standard ones.

MIZZZZZEREEEEE!!!

Danged screws have been heat treated. Even a Cobalt drill meets it's match with a screw that has had its point and threads hardened to around C60.

The only was I was able to remove screws from Quicksilver was by grinding broken off stud flat, even though I had to grind a few thousandths of frame metal to do it. I used an excellent quality center-punch (and had to grind the point every third screw), then I used a 1/16" carbide pilot drill then a #10 follow-up carbide drill on 1/4" self-tapping screws. Drill RPMs are critical. I over-sped things a couple of times, and my wallet got slapped around. Lucky lucky me. Had I broken-off a carbide drill in the screw, the show would have been over.

Best of luck and fortune to you! My episode really tried my patience, and I still smart from it almost 20-years later.

At work when we had to drill out a broken off screw or bolt we used a set of "reverse" drills. These turn to the left and many times while drilling they would bind/catch the broken off piece and just spin it right out.

For drilling SS and other hardened metals, I have always used a cobalt bit at slow rpms. (Not a cobalt plated... You are looking at ~$30-$50 for a cobalt bit...) You won't find them at a big box store though, they will be cheap plated imitations...)

I would recommend Bosch M42 Grade, which is 8% cobalt... (Yes, it is different from cobalt plated, even though it is not pure cobalt)

It will last you a long time if you take care of it and will eat through your hardened metals...


Bosch bits are boss! When I worked in other countries, I would get them straight from Germany. I recall drilling concrete in earthquake prone Chile. The hardest concrete that I have ever seen. It would eat American percussion bits alive! 1 bit per hole...
An old Chilean man ordered me some from Bosch. 1 bit drilled several hundred holes and was still great.
You pay for quality, however you get what you pay for...

My experience, YMMV
Good luck!

Lynnmor wrote:

fj12ryder wrote:
Almost a minute to go through 1/4" cold roll, sure it didn't melt it's way through? :)

You do the same test and report back. I do understand that 50 seconds out of a lifetime is way too much of a burden.

I was referring to the fact that a sharp bit will go through it in a couple seconds.
It was a joke man. Lighten up.

Can you get to the back of the screws? Back to the penetrating oil and vice grips suggestion.

And, with 5/16" thick beam wall, I would sure consider tapping the old holes if self tapping screws can be removed or drilling, tapping and using bolts rather than self tapping screws.