How many links to lift on a WD hitch?

TomG2 wrote:
Measurements will get you to a starting point. Scales are the best and only weigh to know what you have got. Saying things like "three links" or "five links" only adds to the confusion. What if your chain has thirty links and mine only ten? How can you relate to that?

Should all start measuring inches of chains

Measurements will get you to a starting point. Scales are the best and only weigh to know what you have got. Saying things like "three links" or "five links" only adds to the confusion. What if your chain has thirty links and mine only ten? How can you relate to that?

bandit86 wrote:
Thanks for the links, I was misinformed about the purpose of the hitch. I'm not so worried now

No problem, glad it will be of some use.

Couple of other points that are covered in those links. 10% - 15% tongue weight (I should have qualified my above statement when mentioning nose loading your trailer).

On level ground, level your TT then measure the height from the ground to the inside top of the TT hitch ball coupler. Subtract 1/2" - 1" of the height and that is the max height of the top of the ball on your truck's hitch on the same level ground.

Most importantly, ALWAYS assume the person who setup your WDH did not fine tune it or completely set it up wrong. Learn your WDH system and fine tune it yourself making sure your trailer is loaded for travel when fine tuning your WDH.

Nice vintage Reese dual cam hitch! Spring bars come in different ratings and the required rating depends on actual tongue weight. Maybe someone knows ratings on the older DC WDHs. If bars are too "light", it may not be possible to transfer enough weight but it's hard to tell by the info. so far. When the TH is fully loaded, it could be that the bars and hitch won't have high enough rating. I'd guess you'd need 1200 lb bars. If you do need more tension on the bars, it looks like the hitch head is already tilted as far as it can go tho. Going to a scale would be a very good idea to get weights and would be good to know with and without any toys in it.

The "crook" in one bar end isn't centered on the cam. It's important to have them centered when in a straight line and truck and trailer are fully loaded for a trip. Can be harder for a TH with the amount of tongue weight variation.

A bit of squat in the rear of a truck is normal and okay, usually around 1 -2". It might be that the 2 3/4" will reduce when the WDH is fully adjusted and ready to go. But then, the rear is 3" or more lower to start with and not sure if handling could be adversely affected? As long as you aren't exceeding payload or RAWR, squat is fine. Some don't like the squat and install air bags. The thing that is really important is that once you have the WDH hooked up and properly adjusted, the trailer needs to sit level to slightly nose down. I had to get a ball with 1" rise to get our Reese DC to work out.

I put it on the 5th on mine. Make sure you adjust the cams so that they both are centered when straight.

bandit86 wrote:
I was in Genral trailers in Michigan picking up a trailer with my friend, the guy setting it up said the back should be just as high with the trailer loaded and weight distributing properly set up as without.

That is false. You will have sag. The WDH helps put weight back on the front axle. It may also take some sag away.

Thanks for the links, I was misinformed about the purpose of the hitch. I'm not so worried now

Some good information on these links that should help you set it up properly and also give an explanation on how it works.

As an added FYI... keep in mind proper loading of your trailer is also key to a good tow too! When in doubt, consider raising your tongue weight by nose loading the trailer and also pay good attention to side/side load balance.


Travel Trailer Hitch Set-up Procedure

Weight Distribution (WD) Hitch --- How it Works

I was in Genral trailers in Michigan picking up a trailer with my friend, the guy setting it up said the back should be just as high with the trailer loaded and weight distributing properly set up as without.

The following is my opinion--others will vary.

Reese recommends no less than 5 links under tension. You're exactly right about the corner issue--that's what it is about. To get more links you have to tilt the head on the shank. Pictures or more information will get you TONS of advice. The links should be set more to the front axle (bumper height) than the rear axle (bumper height). You want to bring the front bumper down to just higher than the unloaded height--I think 3/16" is perfect. You're pretty much stuck with the back bumper height. But, that is the way trucks and big SUVs are designed--for the back to come down under load. If the hitch ends up to low, the ONLY fix is to shift the height on the shank. The WD bars are for setting weight balance on the tow vehicle.

No data tag on the hitch. Came with the trailer. Trailer weights 5500 pounds. Will be 9500 once loaded for the trip. 2003 dodge ram 2500. Has a 3 inch levelling kit on the front so it looks more squatted than a regular truck. Top of hitch is 23 inches empty and 20 1/4 with this trailer setup