How to determine rating of a new converter panel?

Ummmmm.......

Most Power Pedestal RVs need only 35-amps? This is for my personal info. I am most definitely not up to date on modern RV hotel loads ---thanks!

myredracer wrote:
Still not sure what a converter rating is based on. Is it the total DC load in an RV, recharge time or total battery capacity, or all?

Most RVs only need 35 amps but a 55 amp WFCO is only $10 more and looks better on the brochure.

Unfortunately the wire and battery are too small from OEM to have the 8955 work properly and the system does not really function as a 3-stage converter like the big yellow sticker says :(

35 to 60 amps is fine even with the added compressor. I would tend to go 60 amp max on replacing that main fuse. You may need to add a branch circuit fuse if the 30 amp protected some smaller wires such as to power the slide.

myredracer wrote:
WFCO is model 8955PEC. I would prefer to just replace the converter "guts"). It looks like the PD 9200 series along with the Charge Wizard. Can these be reset for AGMs or do you have to order the correct one?

9200 has the wizard built in but there is another model that is designed to "Drop in" where the guts of the WFCO are now.

Since your WFCO is a 55 amp, I'd go with the xx60 from Progressive Dynamics I believe the 4600 line is designed as the "Replacement/Upgrade" model. Basicaly it is a 9200 but without the outer case so it's a bit less expensive.

Randy can advise you for sure.

The dongle (is optional on both lines.. This is the device that gives you control over the unit.

NO: They do not make a re-program kit for AGMs but even Lifeline says the Wizard does a good job of maintainint their AGMs so I'd not worry about that.

Good info., thanks. Yes I was referring to the choice of sizes.

westend wrote:

The rating is a fixed output because of the design of the charger. I think you may be referring to choice of size.

Ideally, the converter should charge the battery(s) in a short amount of time to 90% of capacity. It may be that a user also has large amperage loads that are drawn while the battery is charging. Sizing would take into consideration those loads, especially if battery capacity is also increased to address the loads. For example: while running the V;air compressor for an hour and using other devices in the trailer, simultaneously, that hour of usage could maybe draw 40 AH from your battery. That might be close to 50% of a 100AH AGM battery. At that point, you would wish to recharge your battery to 90%. A 55 amp charger would get you there in 2-3Hrs, most likely. If you were a user that needs to power the converter on a generator, you might wish to upsize your converter rating to chop some generator run time. FWIW, I've found that most AGM batteries will suck up those amps from the charger quickly. You may get by with less charging time with AGM's.

Still not sure what a converter rating is based on. Is it the total DC load in an RV, recharge time or total battery capacity, or all?

The rating is a fixed output because of the design of the charger. I think you may be referring to choice of size.

Ideally, the converter should charge the battery(s) in a short amount of time to 90% of capacity. It may be that a user also has large amperage loads that are drawn while the battery is charging. Sizing would take into consideration those loads, especially if battery capacity is also increased to address the loads. For example: while running the V;air compressor for an hour and using other devices in the trailer, simultaneously, that hour of usage could maybe draw 40 AH from your battery. That might be close to 50% of a 100AH AGM battery. At that point, you would wish to recharge your battery to 90%. A 55 amp charger would get you there in 2-3Hrs, most likely. If you were a user that needs to power the converter on a generator, you might wish to upsize your converter rating to chop some generator run time. FWIW, I've found that most AGM batteries will suck up those amps from the charger quickly. You may get by with less charging time with AGM's.

I would suggest a lower section like this. Call Randy at Best to insure it will serve your needs. I would say stay with the 55 amp.
Boondocker
The #8 if coming from batteries is a little small. If easy to replace then do so. If not make sure the fusing is correctly sized.

WFCO is model 8955PEC. I would prefer to just replace the converter "guts"). It looks like the PD 9200 series along with the Charge Wizard. Can these be reset for AGMs or do you have to order the correct one?

The wire size from our battery to converter is #8. Even if not upgrading the converter, considering also the length from battery to the converter? The mini-circuit breaker in the A-frame is 30 amps. I would assume that I should also increase the breaker size?

I'm also looking at installing a Viair on-board compressor which would have a draw of around 15-20 amps depending on which model. Would this have an affect on sizing the converter? Duty cycle could be anywhere from 15% to 100% as I have no idea yet which compressor to use (just for topping up tires and winterizing).

What is the model of your WFCO? most of them have a 4 digit model number

The last two are the Max DC output of the unit.

NOTE: if you are upgrading there are two levels.

First: (Recommended) is a product line at Progressive Dynamics that replaces the ELECTRONICS which are behind the fuse/breaker panel. This means you keep the original WFCO box, and distribution system. just sticker it to indicate the Progressive Dynamics upgrade in the back.

The other (A lot more work) you replace the whole shebang.

I successfully charged an 875 amp-hour bank with a 40 amp PD which was equipped with a wizard. The batteries are 6 and 10 years old and are being replaced tomorrow.

Not quite nothing. If you want fast charging then a bigger converter will initially put more amps into the bank.

red31 wrote:
So battery capacity has nothing to do with converter DC rating?

The converter's output voltage will appear to sag under 12v loads so the idea is to keep it up above 13v (as seen at the battery down however long a wire that is) so the battery does not have to help out running the loads.

You could say the total 12v load of all the stuff in the rig on at once needs to be handled by the DC rating of the converter so it stays above 13v. Of course you don't often have everything on at once. Furnace on while running out the slide and raising the front jacks with all the lights and fans on?

That is why they have 13.6v as normal. When at 13.2 and you use 12v stuff, the voltage at the battery can go below 13 easily. Same on solar if you are on 13.2v Float in the afternoon with full batts and you run small 12v things, the battery charging stops and a draw starts, but if you raise the Float to 13.6, the solar can run the small loads and still keep some amperage to the battery so it stays up on the Float.

Some three stage converters will automatically trigger off 13.2 and go back to 13.6 when you run a 12v load in the rig.