How to disconnrct DC power.

Breakers are for 120vac, And you won't find any on the converter, FUSES are for 12VCD, and if one door covers both breakers and fuses (Note if inside a cupbord or cabinet the outer door does not count) then the converter is very likely BEHIND that panel (part of the assembly)

Breakers and fuses are in power distribution centers.

So turning off breakers does not turn off 12vdc.. There may be a DISCONNECT (May say Use/Store or Aux Battery) switch just inside the door, often accessable while standing on the ground.

FOr long term storage.. Lift NEGATIVE leads off battery.

MrWizard wrote:


Turn off the light switch

X2

MrWizard wrote:
A 1988 Class C , . Might not have a battery disconnect switch
Not as common on C class as A class

Turn off the light switch, or pull the 12v fuse

Your one lucky person off you have never had to replace a 12v fuse our even go look for them in your RV life

I mapped all the dc circuits at one time by pulling fuses. I have a full charge on the battery and we'll see how it holds charge. It's only 9 months old so if it was ruined, I have some warranty left. Interstate makes good batteries.

A 1988 Class C , . Might not have a battery disconnect switch
Not as common on C class as A class

Turn off the light switch, or pull the 12v fuse

Your one lucky person off you have never had to replace a 12v fuse our even go look for them in your RV life

This is a typical 30AMP RV WIRING Configuration Block diagram.


As you can see here both the CONVERTER/CHARGER and the ON-BOARD BATTERY feed your 12VDC POWER DISTRIBUTION panel.

Just turning off the circuit breaker for the converter/charger will NOT keep the battery from providing power to a left 'ON' 12vdc light. It will keep burning until the battery goes dead.

The sure way is to install a BATTERY DISCONNECT switch at the battery terminals or just simply pull the NEGATIVE BATTERY terminal if is accessible.

Of course running down the battery to a 'DEAD' state is usually not recoverable. You will most likely have to replace the battery now...

Roy Ken

Thanks for all the help. I do not have a disconnect switch. Rather than pull the blade fuses, as mentioned, I will disconnect the ground from the battery until things warm up. Then, I think, I'll add a blade switch for the battery. Thanks again.

Add your own master battery switch if you do not have one.

Should be a battery disconnect just inside the entry way. This will also not allow for the house batteries not to charge. When on shore power.

The breakers are for 120v AC or household type outlets. The lights are 12v DC or automotive type circuits. A battery disconnect switch will allow complete isolation of the 12v power. There can be several small parasitic drains to the battery that over time will drain the power.

The breakers on the converter typically control the AC voltage. Do you have a fuse panel for the DC voltage?