How to make AC plugs work without shore power.

Here is how my RV is wired.. Read down

Shore power inlet or generator
Automatic transfer switch
Main breaker box==== Lines to Air conditioners and other heavy loads
Line to Xantrex Prosine 2.0 True Sine Wave automatic in-line inverter/charger
Prosine-----12 volt battery bank,, A BIG ONE (500 amp hours+)
Line to sub panel
Sub panel-----Lines to assorted 120 volt outlets see list:

The list
Televisons (Both) and related electroincs
The outlet this computer is plugged into
GFCI and all the outlets that get their power via it including the Kitchen
Dining Table both bathrooms and patio.
Microwave


The Prosine (NOTE: It is no longer made but many others work much the same way) has a built in automatic transfer switch

If shore/generator present and acceptable: It passes through and optionally charges the batteries (I like my Intella POwer 91000+ Charge Wizard better so I disabled that feature.. But it's a single switch flip to enable it if the 9100 becomes unpluged or something)

IF power fails.. The inverter kicks in so fast the TV does not even blink.. Drawing power from the batteries. This happens often when I'm on 30 amps.

Mine was installed by Camping world.. They messed up a minor thing.. I fixed later.

Thanks for the info guys.

MrWizard wrote:
It's Watts ..not Amps...... watts = volts*Amps

900w at 120v is approx 7.5 amps
But 900w at 12v is Ten times the amps, aka 75 amps minimum, plus inverter power conversion loss

Usually the question is how can I run my A/C from inverter/battery
Same answer .. get a generator

Electric heating or A/C, is just not feasible without a very large battery bank, and then you need the generator anyway so you can recharge the battery bank

Don't forget that you need to add in about 10% for power loss in the inverter. So your 75 amps of 12v DC just went up to almost 83 amps PER HOUR out of your batteries. The guy that spit balled 90 amps per hour from your batteries is REAL close to real world.

A group 27 battery only has about 100 amps of available power, and you can only use about 50% of that without killing the battery. You only have about 50 amps of usable power in that battery.

I recommend Go Power inverters. 900w of heat for a few hours is going to need 6 to 8 batteries. Then how will you recharge?

I will suggest one of the propane catalytic heaters designed for indoor use if you need warmth.

http://www.mrheater.com/product.aspx?catid=41&id=116

What's wrong with using your propane furnace?

Sometimes, a propane furnace is the only thing that makes sense.

It's Watts ..not Amps...... watts = volts*Amps

900w at 120v is approx 7.5 amps
But 900w at 12v is Ten times the amps, aka 75 amps minimum, plus inverter power conversion loss

Usually the question is how can I run my A/C from inverter/battery
Same answer .. get a generator

Electric heating or A/C, is just not feasible without a very large battery bank, and then you need the generator anyway so you can recharge the battery bank

I don't know what kind of conditions you camp in but if it is running the furnace you are worried about, a solar set up that will cost less than a bunch of batteries and inverter will keep that furnace blower going.

We use a grp 27 to power the trailer functions day to day and that includes keeping the thermostat at 74* in cooler temps during the day and freezing at night. It still takes propane but we never worry about power.

This sounds like someone is going to get hurt, please be safe .

Howdy!

If you need heat you would be better off looking at a stand alone Mr Buddy or Big Buddy heater. We use a Big Buddy heater to heat our 5er instead of the on board which uses way to much battery power. You can use the small propane bottles, use a large 30# or connect to the onboard propane. Make sure if using it that you ventilate the RV as to not cause problems.

"Happy Trails"
Chiefneon