How to remove generator from RV?
If I need to remove the generator from my RV, what's the best way to do that? Mine unbolts from the front and hinges down. So I assume I'd have to undo the hinge bolts at the back also and lower it....
Forum Discussion
So, for future readers, mine was easy to take out and put back in.
First, I disconnected the fuel and battery connections at the front corner of the generator.
Then, I bought a $10, 1000-pound rated small wooden dolly with 4 casters. I put this under the genset, and used 4 sections of 4x4 post, built like a Lincoln-log house. 2 going across the dolly, then 2 going across the first 2. Then I placed a 2x4 on top of one of the last 2 4x4s, because the pan of the 4BGE genset is "stepped" and so to keep it level needed some extra wood on one side.
I was able to position this under the genset, and then I jacked up the outside edge of the genset until I could remove the support brackets, and then I went under the RV and jacked up the inside edge of the genset so that I could lift it off its hinge mounts (after first removing the hinge keepers).
When the jack was released, it eased down onto the wood blocks, and then the dolly and genset could be rolled out of the genset compartment.
My genset had a generous service loop for the 120VAC armored cable, which terminated in the roof of the compartment. Inside the coach this is under one of the kitchen bench seats, so it was easy to remove the junction box cover and disconnect the cable connections.
With that, the generator was free and I was able to roll it into my garage. I got the neighbor to help me lift it up onto a workbench.
Installation was the reverse.
Now that I know how to do it, I could probably remove or install it in 30 minutes.
Not much to it. The biggest benefit is my RV has hydraulic leveling jacks, so I can put down the jacks on the genset side of the RV to jack it up and then I put jackstands against the frame and lower the jacks until the frame is resting on the jacks. Otherwise I would not be able to crawl under the RV without losing a lot of weight. :)
Steve
First, I disconnected the fuel and battery connections at the front corner of the generator.
Then, I bought a $10, 1000-pound rated small wooden dolly with 4 casters. I put this under the genset, and used 4 sections of 4x4 post, built like a Lincoln-log house. 2 going across the dolly, then 2 going across the first 2. Then I placed a 2x4 on top of one of the last 2 4x4s, because the pan of the 4BGE genset is "stepped" and so to keep it level needed some extra wood on one side.
I was able to position this under the genset, and then I jacked up the outside edge of the genset until I could remove the support brackets, and then I went under the RV and jacked up the inside edge of the genset so that I could lift it off its hinge mounts (after first removing the hinge keepers).
When the jack was released, it eased down onto the wood blocks, and then the dolly and genset could be rolled out of the genset compartment.
My genset had a generous service loop for the 120VAC armored cable, which terminated in the roof of the compartment. Inside the coach this is under one of the kitchen bench seats, so it was easy to remove the junction box cover and disconnect the cable connections.
With that, the generator was free and I was able to roll it into my garage. I got the neighbor to help me lift it up onto a workbench.
Installation was the reverse.
Now that I know how to do it, I could probably remove or install it in 30 minutes.
Not much to it. The biggest benefit is my RV has hydraulic leveling jacks, so I can put down the jacks on the genset side of the RV to jack it up and then I put jackstands against the frame and lower the jacks until the frame is resting on the jacks. Otherwise I would not be able to crawl under the RV without losing a lot of weight. :)
Steve
