Hum water heater not working on either Lp or electric.

Did you just reset the thermostat or was it bad?

I have hot water now. It was the thermostat- and the rv tech said buy dinasaur control board and have it ready cause the one that is in mine is junk. He showed me how to replace the igniter board. All is well in hot water land.

Jimbo

I no longer have one to look at thanks for the additional info

ON my rig if the feeder fuse to the switches wenet POP
1: a light (led) came on (Progressive Dynamics Fuse panel)
2: A light (Switch) Did NOT come on.
But other fuses. Possible.

I had to replace my control board if you do I suggest Dinosaur boards.

wa8yxm wrote:
Well as I said not my #1
using a volt meter or test light probe the wires to the control board (The ones that come from inside) you can download the manual to find which wire is which
If you have 12 volts on one or the other (Gas or Electric) lines check the matching device line

Also check the two T-Stats with cold tank both should show near zero resistance if you disconnect one (or both) wire and measure tab to tab.

Do them one at a time.. it does not matter which wire goes to which tab so long as the wires go to the correct T-Stat

Well you did say #1 was circuit board


As to which wires......
White wire to circuit board is for the electric
Orange wire to circuit board is for the propane

But 1st would be to check that the Feeder Fuse to the switches is Good
Then Check that the 2A fuse on circuit board is good
Then check that the Thermal fuse is good

The terminals on the T-stat and the ECO are different sizes
Brown wires for thermal fuse/t-stat
Red wires for ECO

Old-Biscuit wrote:
IF it is a 'Dometic' 6 gal gas/eclectic it should look like this



Dometic acquired Atwood few years ago and is not phasing out the Atwood Brand...redesigned the 6 gal so electric element is in the front

BUT it still uses the SAME Atwood electric control design
12VDC controls gas & electric .....Common DC goes to BOTH on/off switches
So check that the DC Fuse for water heater is not blown

Good Main fuse then the next common DC is to/thru the T-stat
Brown wires....on one of those wires is a Thermal Fuse. If it Blows NO DC to circuit board for any functions
Thermal Fuse is in that clear tubing.....blows when exposed to temps 190*F/above
That can happen if flame flare back should occur
**Dirty combustion chamber/dirty orifice

The other thing common is the 2A fuse on the circuit board


Those are the 3 common Fuses for the Gas & Electric Operation


Here is the New Manual for that Dometic Water Heater
Installation/Operation Manual




IF it is the last version of the Atwood GC6A-10E it will look like this

Same 3 common fuses that would stop gas/electric from operating

Listen to this poster advice, and do this first. Always has good answers backed with facts & diagrams, he's help many people with his answers including me.

Well as I said not my #1
using a volt meter or test light probe the wires to the control board (The ones that come from inside) you can download the manual to find which wire is which
If you have 12 volts on one or the other (Gas or Electric) lines check the matching device line

Also check the two T-Stats with cold tank both should show near zero resistance if you disconnect one (or both) wire and measure tab to tab.

Do them one at a time.. it does not matter which wire goes to which tab so long as the wires go to the correct T-Stat

wa8yxm wrote:
Unit needs 12 volts to run the control board.. And that board is my #1 suspect.

HOWEVER if you winterized properly you removed a RED wire from somethign. likelyh the ECO. and that will kill it(As it is supposed to)

Nope!

Unit needs 12 volts to run the control board.. And that board is my #1 suspect.

HOWEVER if you winterized properly you removed a RED wire from somethign. likelyh the ECO. and that will kill it(As it is supposed to)

IF it is a 'Dometic' 6 gal gas/eclectic it should look like this



Dometic acquired Atwood few years ago and is not phasing out the Atwood Brand...redesigned the 6 gal so electric element is in the front

BUT it still uses the SAME Atwood electric control design
12VDC controls gas & electric .....Common DC goes to BOTH on/off switches
So check that the DC Fuse for water heater is not blown

Good Main fuse then the next common DC is to/thru the T-stat
Brown wires....on one of those wires is a Thermal Fuse. If it Blows NO DC to circuit board for any functions
Thermal Fuse is in that clear tubing.....blows when exposed to temps 190*F/above
That can happen if flame flare back should occur
**Dirty combustion chamber/dirty orifice

The other thing common is the 2A fuse on the circuit board


Those are the 3 common Fuses for the Gas & Electric Operation


Here is the New Manual for that Dometic Water Heater
Installation/Operation Manual




IF it is the last version of the Atwood GC6A-10E it will look like this

Same 3 common fuses that would stop gas/electric from operating

My last water heater looked like that with the black box but my dometic heater has no such box and yep it’s full of water and lord I wished it was hot ?? no clicking when I turn the water heater on Lp. And no power to electric element either. Somehow my rv does not recognize I have a water heater ??

Jimbo

And nothing is burned either it’s a new rv 4 months old