Forum Discussion

barnaclepete1's avatar
May 19, 2015

Install solar on a hybrid trailer

I want to install solar in my trailer. For now it will be a portable setup so I can move the panels around but I may eventually mount one or two panels to the roof at some point.
I will start with one 100W Mono rigid panel and likely add a second at some point (if I mount to roof). I plan to use a Morningstar Prostar PS-15 or PS-30.
I have a couple questions:

· If anyone has a Jayco hybrid, where are you mounting the charge controller? I want to keep cable run from controller to batter less than 8’, preferably less than 6’
· Is it ok to add a battery disconnect switch to the positive line in between the controller and battery for when I want to run a generator or connect to shore power (microwave or AC)?

Still working on fuse placement and sizing(open to suggestions).

Thanks
  • Hi

    We installed solar on our Jayfeather 23J Hybrid this spring. All in all a successful project.

    We used Renogy panels (2 mono 100w panels). I picked up a MPPT Tracer 20amp charge controller (possibly overkill, but works great). We mounted the panels using renogy hardware; mounted them near the front right corner of the roof.
    The biggest challenge was with batteries. I could not easily put a second battery on the trailer tongue. We ended up putting the 2 batteries (new 100 AH AGM's) in a compartment near the front. Got the charge controller and a inverter placed in the same compartment.
    I did put a couple of cut-off switches for the panels and the batteries in there as well.

    Anyway our trips and tests so far have been working our well. You can do definitely do solar on a hybrid.
  • I have a Morningstar TS-45. Go with the larger Controller, as it will allow for more panels later should decide.

    Its hard to tell the difference between the PS-xx and the TS-xx lines other than the TS have a large heat sink, and the TS have the ability to be pluged into a computer and all steps of charging, and keeps logs.

    You can leave the PS and TS fully connected when on shore or generator, the TS doesnt care.

    I would suggest Renogy for the panel(s). They also offer a military discount if you order directly thru them and free shipping. The (military) price was $135 for a 100w panel and $13 for the mounting brackets.

    Amazon also sells their products, but the prices are higher than if you called the company.

    I have five 100w panels and they are all working perfectly.
  • vermilye wrote:
    2oldman wrote:
    barnaclepete1 wrote:
    · Is it ok to add a battery disconnect switch to the positive line in between the controller and battery for when I want to run a generator or connect to shore power (microwave or AC)?
    It's ok, but not necessary.
    I don't know about the design of the Prostar controllers, but many solar controllers are unhappy if the battery side is disconnected while the panels are still connected.

    Since you can charge the batteries with multiple sources, as oldman says, there is no reason to install a disconnect between the controller & batteries. A fuse would be a good idea...


    Thank you. Good information.
  • 2oldman wrote:
    barnaclepete1 wrote:
    · Is it ok to add a battery disconnect switch to the positive line in between the controller and battery for when I want to run a generator or connect to shore power (microwave or AC)?
    It's ok, but not necessary.
    I don't know about the design of the Prostar controllers, but many solar controllers are unhappy if the battery side is disconnected while the panels are still connected.

    Since you can charge the batteries with multiple sources, as oldman says, there is no reason to install a disconnect between the controller & batteries. A fuse would be a good idea...
  • But where ever you put it, put it CLOSE to the batteries. The higher the charging current the closer you should be.

    In our rig, due to poor placement of the controller and an awkward battery location, I have seen a full one volt drop between the voltage at the controller and the voltage at the battery at 20+ Amps. This fools the controller into tapering the charge waaaay too early.
  • Padlin wrote:
    You didn't mention the Jayco model, as your batteries are on the tongue, the front pass thru would work if you have one. Some controllers, like the Bluesky SB2000E and 3000i, can be surface mounted in the living area as opposed to hidden away in a storage area.


    Thanks. It's a 2015 x19H.
  • You didn't mention the Jayco model, as your batteries are on the tongue, the front pass thru would work if you have one. Some controllers, like the Bluesky SB2000E and 3000i, can be surface mounted in the living area as opposed to hidden away in a storage area.
  • barnaclepete1 wrote:
    So I can leave solar hooked up while running generator or shore power? I thought I read that would cause a potential problem. thanks
    I do. The charger with the higher voltage will win. No problem.
  • 2oldman wrote:
    barnaclepete1 wrote:
    · Is it ok to add a battery disconnect switch to the positive line in between the controller and battery for when I want to run a generator or connect to shore power (microwave or AC)?
    It's ok, but not necessary.


    So I can leave solar hooked up while running generator or shore power? I thought I read that would cause a potential problem. thanks
  • barnaclepete1 wrote:
    · Is it ok to add a battery disconnect switch to the positive line in between the controller and battery for when I want to run a generator or connect to shore power (microwave or AC)?
    It's ok, but not necessary.