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swimmer_spe's avatar
swimmer_spe
Explorer
Oct 04, 2019

Installing a drain valve

On my trailer, the drain valve I think is just for the tank as there is only one valve and it is connected to the tank. As far as I know, beyond the pump stays pressurized regardless.

So, what I want to be able to do is install a drain on the pressurized side of the pump so that when I use it in the colder times of the year, if it is going to get below freezing, I can open that valve and save me a burst pipe.

I have white plastic pipes. How hard would it be to do what I want to do? How hard would it be to drill a hole in the floor to have it drain on the ground?

(locally due to the severe cold we get, plumbing antifreeze is recommended for winterizing.)

7 Replies

  • We have an outdoor sink that I would connect to with a hose, this year I wanted to add hot and cold water lines to the sink and get rid of the hose.

    I drilled 2 holes in the floor (after triple checking the area!!) cut the lines added the fittings using a pex tool and pex fittings. Didn't take but an hour to do, so I think you can and should add the low point drains. It is a good idea to be able to drain down the pressurized lines when the temp drops. JMHO
  • OP here.

    What I am doing is not for winterizing, but so I can us it in fall and spring when temperatures can go under 0 overnight.

    I have a 1999 Rockwood Ultralight 26'
  • My 1990 Winnebago has 4 low point drains. They drain the system so well that compressed air does nothing afterwards, so I no longer bother. I also do not use antifreeze, except in my p-traps, of course.
  • Most RV's have 2 low point drains.1 hot 1 cold. However some don't have them. My 2011 Keystone Sprinter with the Thermo Package installed does not have low point drains. The only penetrations below the plastic belly is two 3" drain valves and the FW tank drain. When you think about it, if using pink antifreeze there is no need for low point drains.

    You are correct. Your FW tank is not pressurized.
  • List your trailer information (make and Model). Somebody on here will be able to point you to your low point drains. But like Craig said, opening those drains alone may help but it will most likely not prevent things from breaking.
    Some use compressed air to blow out the lines successfully. Some of us will just pump RV anti-freeze through the system.
    Don't forget to drain your water heater and then bypass it if possible (search "water heater bypass" on the site). This will save you a lot of anti-freeze.
    Also make sure you run it through every valve/faucet in the trailer. The toilet and outside shower systems are often forgotten.

    If you have any neighbors with RV's it would be a good idea to ask them for help if you have never done this before.
  • Easy to do, however you should have low point drains that will do the same thing. Just opening the drain valves will not stop the pipes from breaking in winter. You will still have to use the antifreeze to keep things safe.

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