Installing inverter w/charger and transfer switch

I guess it would be easier. I was just going to keep the air and heater breakers off. If I have to install a sub pane I will. I was in construction a long time and when I look at that diagram it looks like a no brainer. Im getting a little nervous because of the conflicting info.

Are you doing a sub panel?

I thought you were doing whole house like this:

letup27 wrote:
Im looking to run outlets, tv and dish satellite. Don't really care about the microwave. Coffee or toaster if possible. I wanted to go with a 2500 so I could be well within the range. I was going to use 1/0 AWG WELDING CABLE WIRE SAE J1127 COPPER BATTERY SOLAR BLACK & RED 10' EACH. Should be about a 5' run to the inverter.

Perfect.

Im looking to run outlets, tv and dish satellite. Don't really care about the microwave. Coffee or toaster if possible. I wanted to go with a 2500 so I could be well within the range. I was going to use 1/0 AWG WELDING CABLE WIRE SAE J1127 COPPER BATTERY SOLAR BLACK & RED 10' EACH. Should be about a 5' run to the inverter.

You don't need or want a separate transfer switch. You are installing what we call a "whole house" inverter that will power the entire panel. Yes you can run the air conditioner, microwave, electric water heater, electric fridge if you like... not all at once and only until the battery is dead.

Typically you would not use the air conditioner and set the water and fridge to propane only. Any of these will drain the battery fairly quick. Use the microwave sparingly, better to use the propane cooktop when you can.

To fully utilize a 2500 watt inverter you should have 4+ batteries. For mostly light loads two batteries work for some people.

The batteries will recharge automatic as the inverter/charger has a charging function. Of course you will need an external source of power such as generator or utility. Just plug in the main cord. Do review the charger set up section in the owners manual.

The converter can be disconnected from 120v power and left in place. If the charging system should fail you could reconnect until the main inverter/charger could be repaired.

Once you have the manual etc in hand I think it will all just fall into place. You are on the right track.

I would try to avoid the DC cut off switch to minimize connections. Just remove the fuse or cable off the battery for service.

Manual calls for 1/0 wire and is larger than #1 AWG.

Custom cables available here

letup27 wrote:
https://tops-stars.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/wiring-diagram-for-rv-travel-trailer-wiring-diagram-inspiring-car-pertaining-to-rv-inverter-wiring-diagram.jpg

Hope you can open the image. If theres a charger and ats in the inverter should I disconnect my existing one? As I said the existing battery position is running to the disconnect, brake and power jack. Should I attach the positive wire to the new one running to the inverter and should it be before the fuse?

The emergency breakaway positive wire from the pull switch to the battery is not to be fused and should go direct, not via another wire that might be fused.

Your battery to DC fuse panel wire stays as is, not to the inverter pos input then on to the DC panel. Why do that? Your pos wires now on the battery for the slides and jacks also stay as is.

You fuse the fat pos wire for the inverter/charger's input(for inverter)/output(for charger) near the battery pos post. Fuse size in amps per installation instructions.

IMO you should keep your converter as is too so you can use it instead of the charger in the inverter/charger at times. The inverter charger has to be connected and on with the battery bank to operate it. You can't run the charger part when there is no battery like you can with a converter to still get 12v when your batteries are out for servicing or whatever.

Not clear, but sounds like your inverter will be too far from the battery bank to prevent voltage drop enough so you can run the MW or other high amp appliances even with fat wire. Also no word on the size of the battery bank, which needs to be about 400AH or so to do any good.

“ The information Im getting on the internet is that I should take out the existing converter, because the inverter is a charger/ats.“

There is no reason whatsoever to disable your OEM converter-charger...The Aims manual list this unit as a ‘inverter-charger’ rather than a ‘converter-charger’ (though it’s charger function may well suffice as a converter...). If you ‘opt’ to use the Aims charger instead of the OEM converter, simply switch off the converter breaker at the main panel... This will give you the added flexibility (redundancy) of using either charger OR both concurrently, assuming your battery bank is capable - note also that the Aims charger’s amp output is user adjustable as is the battery type...

As far as you question about the secondary ATS Switch goes, in order for shore power to ‘pass-thru’ the inverter, the inverter must be switched to ‘ON’ , and when ON there's about a 3.5amp continuous parasitical drain from the battery bank...A second ATS switch negates this need to have the inverter switched to ON (to route shore power) because it provides an secondary-alternate path into the main panel...

Without this alternate path you would need to leave the charger section ON (either the Aims or OEM converter) to simultaneously resolve for this parasitic drain ...Note that once the inverter is switched ON, you can then choose to have the charger section of the inverter ON of OFF, or switch on the existing OEM converter at the main panel...

BTW, the cable run you mention = 12’ round trip, thus to fully utilize the capability of your inverter (surge rating) you should consider using heavier cables - at a minimum I would suggest 2 aught or greater...

https://tops-stars.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/wiring-diagram-for-rv-travel-trailer-wiring-diagram-inspiring-car-pertaining-to-rv-inverter-wiring-diagram.jpg

Hope you can open the image. If theres a charger and ats in the inverter should I disconnect my existing one? As I said the existing battery position is running to the disconnect, brake and power jack. Should I attach the positive wire to the new one running to the inverter and should it be before the fuse?

I would first - look at the manual for the layout/installation. Then draw in what your coach has as to where you want to connect to. Then sit back and clearly see what you want.