Forum Discussion
8 Replies
- It's new wave, in vogue, buzzword proved............
SMART
Down with adjustable carbon pile load testing
UP UP UP with SMART battery impedance testing
Been harping about this for years. Maybe I'm wasting my breath... - The guy should learn to read a meter before he does the calculation. He is using 1 volt in the calculation when it is actually 1/2 volt. LOL
- So to test for the battery internal resistance: What is the best value, "good enough" battery tester? Besides a specific gravity tester.
I have one of the inexpensive HF 100A load testers. It seems to be poorly calibrated. All batteries on it read weaker than they are. I have seen the same basic tester in the Schumacher brand, and it gave what I felt were correct readings.
Or should we forget about those old things and buy something like what Chris B linked to above? - Haven't listened to the whole thing yet (if you want a hoot, try watching it using the closed captions), but that Harbor Freight battery analyzer calculates internal resistance to measure battery health.
- I thought the video was perdy stupid because that was not even close to a real life.....bad battery situation.
A 2 amp load would NEVER be placed on a 9v battery. In fact that 2 amp load probably ruined that 9v battery.
I don't know why the vid did not show the exact bad 12v battery situation that he first was talking about,....would have made a lot more sense to me. - Thanks for posting. Good illustration of why load testing is essential to benchmark battery performance.
- Yes the hard part is separating the EMF from Resistance.
Most people say the resistance increases as a battery charges because the amps are tapering. Actually the resistance is dropping as a battery charges. The EMF is rising to match that of the charger until current basically stops when charged.
So a discharged battery at 12 volts is put on a charger of 14 volts you basically have 2 volts to overcome the resistance. Once the EMF hits 14 then current stops. - Must have been what was wrong with my 4 wheeler battery recently. Ran fine one minute and when I tried to start it again it would not do anything. The monitor screen was flickering with crazy information coming up.
It is not easy to get to the battery but I took off the front rack and with a voltmeter I was getting good voltage numbers which indicated the battery was charged. I knew it was electrical but thought it was in the key on/off switch. Hauled it to service location and after a week they charged me for a new battery plus $90 labor to install it :(
I guess a load test would have picked the bad battery up rather than just a quick voltmeter reading.
