We'll be bringing home our first Fifth Wheel in a couple days, and I have all the components for a 4-battery bank (Trojan T-105's), Magnum MS2812 inverter, inverter remote, and Trimetric TM-2030-RV monitor. I'm making 4/0 cables, and minimizing all the 12v runs. Since the Magnum inverter has a built in transfer switch and 125 amp charger, I'm going to install a 50 amp plug to run a line directly into the inverter for efficient charging. I also have a shunt, switch, and 300 amp fuse in there too.I want to run the A/C output of the inverter directly into the fuse box and power all the outlets in the trailer. This is where I'm a little confused, and can use the wisdom of this group. Is this nothing more than running 10AWG wire from the inverter into the fuse box, or is there something more complicated?Ultimately, after monitoring our power usage with the trimetric for a while, I'll add a Bogart SC-2030 controller and the appropriately sized set of solar panels. But our Honda generator will suffice for now.Thank you for your help.Tim

treeofliberty wrote:I want to run the A/C output of the inverter directly into the fuse box and power all the outlets in the trailer. Dangerous wiring as the main power cord will be hot. Of course "you'll never come in contact with the male plug" but "a child or another camper?".DON'T DO THIS!Plus sooner or later you'll plug in the shore cord with the inverter AC connected to the CB panel. Bye bye inverter.Add a 30A CB to your panel to feed the 2812. Then rewire your plug circuits from the CB panel to the inverter output. When on shore power the 2812 ATS will power the outlets and when using the inverter it will power those same outlets.

Can't say about inverter. While seems like a no-brainer add-on, having Trimetric should not be the sole reason to buy SC-2030. Normally people buy controller at the very last step. Energy usage -> battery size -> inverter and solar size -> type and size of solar array -> controller type and size. Occasionally there are people doing it the other way around, and the result is usually from optimal.

treeofliberty wrote: Is this nothing more than running 10AWG wire from the inverter into the fuse box, or is there something more complicated?A bit. Remove shore power from the breaker box and connect to inverter input. Run inverter output to breaker box.I didn't literally do what I said above.. I intercepted my shore cable where it enters the coach at a jct box.

That's a big inverter for only four batteries.

1500-1800W is enough for microwave, and I wouldn't run much more with 4 batteries.

Inverter Hard Wire install | Good Sam Community

28 Replies

Kayteg1
Explorer II
Apr 27, 2016
I've been running my whole conversion out of 2600W inverter-charger for a decade.
Single AC, but having 24V coach with monster alternator and no dash AC, this is what I use on the road.
The only issue I had that even I had inverter in central bay, somehow the hot air from rear engine was making there and inverter would overheat when we drove at freeway speeds. Run fine at low speeds.
I made cold air ducting from living area to inverter fan and that solved the issue.
treeofliberty
Explorer
Apr 27, 2016
2oldman wrote:
treeofliberty wrote:
Is this nothing more than running 10AWG wire from the inverter into the fuse box, or is there something more complicated?
A bit. Remove shore power from the breaker box and connect to inverter input. Run inverter output to breaker box.

I didn't literally do what I said above.. I intercepted my shore cable where it enters the coach at a jct box.

If I may echo what you said another way, to see if I understand you correctly, you routed around the stock converter, essentially replacing it with your inverter/charger. Did I understand you correctly?
MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Apr 27, 2016
Everything. All the 120 vac goes into the inverter with a 30-amp rig. Your inverter should have 2 paralleled 20-amp DPDT relays. Magnum comes with seperb installation instructions and diagrams. If you follow them to the letter you will be fine. If you want to get fancy and bypass the inverter for hot water then you will need a separate breaker that has nothing to do with your original breaker panel.
Almot
Explorer III
Apr 27, 2016
1500-1800W is enough for microwave, and I wouldn't run much more with 4 batteries.
corvettekent
Explorer
Apr 27, 2016
That's a big inverter for only four batteries.
2oldman
Explorer II
Apr 27, 2016
treeofliberty wrote:
Is this nothing more than running 10AWG wire from the inverter into the fuse box, or is there something more complicated?
A bit. Remove shore power from the breaker box and connect to inverter input. Run inverter output to breaker box.

I didn't literally do what I said above.. I intercepted my shore cable where it enters the coach at a jct box.
Almot
Explorer III
Apr 27, 2016
Can't say about inverter.

While seems like a no-brainer add-on, having Trimetric should not be the sole reason to buy SC-2030. Normally people buy controller at the very last step.
Energy usage -> battery size -> inverter and solar size -> type and size of solar array -> controller type and size.
Occasionally there are people doing it the other way around, and the result is usually from optimal.
CA_Traveler
Explorer III
Apr 27, 2016
treeofliberty wrote:

I want to run the A/C output of the inverter directly into the fuse box and power all the outlets in the trailer.

Dangerous wiring as the main power cord will be hot. Of course "you'll never come in contact with the male plug" but "a child or another camper?".

DON'T DO THIS!

Plus sooner or later you'll plug in the shore cord with the inverter AC connected to the CB panel. Bye bye inverter.

Add a 30A CB to your panel to feed the 2812. Then rewire your plug circuits from the CB panel to the inverter output. When on shore power the 2812 ATS will power the outlets and when using the inverter it will power those same outlets.

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Inverter Hard Wire install

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