Inverter install ?

You can add a second transfer switch or plug your cord in direct.
Do not just tap into the existing switch.

Your entire panel will be powered so you will need to turn some items off such as converter, fridge, electric water heat and microwave. Worst case you will run the battery dead quickly or overload the inverter.

If you want to power a single branch circuit you can use a small 15a transfer switch after the branch breaker. Then you end up pulling 120v wire to the panel. Or you can move the inverter to behind the breaker panel and just use the main 12v battery feed and connect to the branch without pulling wire.

Yes you need to use the chassis ground. Connect direct to the frame independent of other connections.

Nice inverter BTW :B

I installed mine on the wall of the basement just the other side of the wall from the batteries. The 12V wires go to the 12V bus bar in the battery compartment through a 40A self-resetting breaker. The two extension cords go to two very different colored receptacles near two of my TVs, stereo, etc. 300W MSW works fine for me.

pianotuna wrote:
I turn off the converter, water heater, and set the fridge to propane. Then I plug the shore power cord into the 120 volt side of the inverter.

That is an idea. Might give it a try before resorting to having to run dedicated outlets.

Agree the transfer switch is already in use by shore and genny power so can't really tap in with an inverter.

Will powering all of the AC outlets in the rig vs only a couple of dedicated outlets mean a significant difference in load on the inverter? Even if nothing is plugged into any of the other outlets?

I'd suggest to buy an extension cord long enough to reach the entertainment area and either hardwire a box with this type of receptacle or equip the box with it's own male cord set end. Some depends on the permanence of your situation regarding the inverted power. In lieu of an extension cord, you can just pull 12 ga. or 14 ga. residential wire from the inverter to the location where you need power.

You could buy and install an additional 15 amp transfer switch to enable inverted power to all your receptacles or, like Pianotuna mentions, plug your shore power cord with adaptor into the inverter. The case against that is that it is that 300W of inverted power is not going to power a lot of 120V devices.

Great news... Looks like you all set-up..

Just for those couple of items I would make the install as easy as possible haha...

My two multi-drop extension cords are attached to the back of the table top and is always ON. Even when we are connected to SHORE POWER. It does have remote control however so I can turn it off it I need to. I basically use this for a re-charging station for the computers and cell phones, VERIZON mifi box, etc and run the Home entertainment items...

The multi-head extension cords looks like they belong there. They also have an ON-OFF switch. I routed the extension cords around things out-of-sight to get to the INVERTER location. Going this route I don't have to worry about 120VAC grounding or working with the attached shore power neutral and grounds etc... I did ground the chassis of the INVERTER in hopes to cut down the existing RFI noise all Inverters have that might interfere with the HDTV, WX Radios, or my Ham Radio items and Police Scanners. Helped alittle bit by grounding the Inverter chassis directly to frame ground...

Roy Ken

It is a pure sine. Only plan on using it to run my TV (~50W) my sons Xbox and for charging of small electronic devices.

I'm running dual 6v batteries and have 160W solar.

That transfer switch is already in use, MFG do not install unused equipment
What are you going to disconnect so you can connect the inverter
The generator or your shore power
You cannot just tie it to an existing used input
The moment that input becomes hot from shore power or generator , it would destroy the inverter and possibly burn down the RV
You need to install a second auxiliary transfer switch,
Or perhaps run a dedicated circuit from the inverter to the items you wish to power

A 300WATT INVERTER is NOT going to be large enough to do anything but perhaps drive your Home Entertainment items and some Computer and Cell phone chargers etc... It is alot of effort to pair out the 120VAC Circuit to either run off of Shore power or Emergency Power or Inverters... I would be thinking if it was large 3000WATT Inverter setup it would be worth the effort.

INVERTERS are also very BATTERY DEPENDENT. They consume alot of battery power when being used. Check your install manual for how 12VDC current it will draw when being used at full power. Probably around 25 AMPS... This may require a min of 255AHs Battery Capacity to make it through ONE night. This is almost the amount of DC CURRENT we draw from our batteries with our 600WATT Inverter for some 120VAC items and some Battery direct connected for all the thing we want to use in ONE night in our off-road camping. This drops my 255AH Capacity Battery bank down to 12.0VDC over nite which is right at 50% power. I never allow the battery bank to below this number so that I won't do damage to my batteries before the get re-charge as soon as possible.

If it was me I would just plug in a coupe of multi-head 120VAC Extension Cords and run one to the Home Entertainment area and the other to the night stand next to your bed.


I also don't think the GO POWER INVERTER you have is a PURE SINE WAVE model which means you may have to watch real close what you plug into it. The consensus is anything ELECTRONIC requires a PURE SINE WAVE type Inverter to be 100% safe. Electronic items like to go up in BLUE SMOKE the instant you plug them in. Anything that uses a Electronic Module controller is definitely prone to damage. The best approach is just always use a PURE SINE WAVE model Inverter and never worry what anyone else will plug into them... The Early PSW INVERTER were alot more expensive but that not so much true anymore. My DUTY 600WATT INVERTER is a PSW Model and only cost $149 from AMAZON.

I am still using my original three GP24 12VDc Interstate 85AH Batteries installed in 2008. I originally had 4ea Interstate batteries but boiled out battery fluids on one which shorted internally before I realized I needed a smart mode charging system

Just my thoughts here based on camping off the power grid alot for the past five years or so... I'm sure others will tell you differently... Everyone has their unique experiences on what works for them.

Roy Ken

I turn off the converter, water heater, and set the fridge to propane. Then I plug the shore power cord into the 120 volt side of the inverter.

Yes you can tap into the transfer switch, that is how most inverters are installed in Class As, the only issue is your inverter is too small to do that should really have it only powering a couple of outlets. Also I believe the recommended installation is to NOT have them in the same compartment as the battery and the battery fumes combined with the electronics could cause and explosion or the fumes could cause the inverter to go bad. The ground is recommended but only if your trailer is not using the frame as a common negative circuit.