Inverter mounting

sayoung wrote:

Chris Bryant wrote:
I hate to harp on this, but y'all are ignoring the fact that the OP's refrigerator does not draw 720 watts- 6 amps, unless it is a 4 door model, it draws 300 watts. That doesn't need a 2000 watt inverter, a 350-400 watt model would do fine- MSW- zero need for sine wave for a heating element.
#4 welding cable of whatever length he needs for a TC is overkill.
The OP stated the inverter is only for running the refrigerator over the road- why make things complicated?

2000 watts is just one I can get a deal on locally. I know a smaller will do but if I can find a deal Ill go big every time.
My Fluke amp meter says 6 amps not 3 as others have stated. I just put a new one on that came with the rebuilt cooling unit & it pulls 6 amps also (after 2units gave up & bought new fridge, anther story ). Maybe others pull 3 but not mine. I do have a slight working knowledge on how to use the meter , only been an AC tech /electrician for a loooonnnnng time.
I have no room in battery compartment so as in 1st post, how hot do they get ? That will determine mounting place. A few extra feet of #4 or heavier not a big deal for getting what I want. I am in the no propane open when on the road gruop, & just not changing mind . Will even add a battery if needed .

If it is putting over 700 watts of heat in to the cooling unit, it will burn it up quickly- that is WAY too much heat.

BFL13 wrote:


True, but there is the "surge" in amps when cycling start-up, so most people report they need at least a 600w inverter for the res fridge.

Our new small absorption fridge on AC has a steady draw of more like 14 amps vs the 5 amp steady draw of the small res fridge we had. I don't know if there is a surge with the new fridge on AC when you switch from propane to AC.

We prefer to use the 120v mode from inverter while on the road and then switch to propane on arrival, but unless stopping for gas or taking a ferry, that is considered safe by many. (Unless you are in a car crash of course)

It's a heating element- there is no surge, as it is the easiest load for an inverter to power. While it draws more steady state, it is just on or off- a non-inductive load.

I just retired from ac work after 30 years. have your sheet metal guy build a box for it. The actual problem for me is wiring it so you don't have to plug and unplug a cord when using it. A transfer relay is kindof special and that is one way of eliminating the plug dance. It has n/o and n/c contacts and a 120v coil, most are open relays.

That's the reason I choose a inverter with a transfer switch built in. I have 7 wires, 120 in 120 out and +/-12v. every thing is switched inside the box automatically when the generator's running or when the external power is connected. the inverter switches to line voltage when either is connected AND charges the battery. This is what I have but it's more than your inverter you have in mind, it's totally automatic

I doubt any inverter running at half rating is going to put out much heat.
Although you do need some volume and space to allow air flow.

Chris Bryant wrote:
I hate to harp on this, but y'all are ignoring the fact that the OP's refrigerator does not draw 720 watts- 6 amps, unless it is a 4 door model, it draws 300 watts. That doesn't need a 2000 watt inverter, a 350-400 watt model would do fine- MSW- zero need for sine wave for a heating element.
#4 welding cable of whatever length he needs for a TC is overkill.
The OP stated the inverter is only for running the refrigerator over the road- why make things complicated?

2000 watts is just one I can get a deal on locally. I know a smaller will do but if I can find a deal Ill go big every time.
My Fluke amp meter says 6 amps not 3 as others have stated. I just put a new one on that came with the rebuilt cooling unit & it pulls 6 amps also (after 2units gave up & bought new fridge, anther story ). Maybe others pull 3 but not mine. I do have a slight working knowledge on how to use the meter , only been an AC tech /electrician for a loooonnnnng time.
I have no room in battery compartment so as in 1st post, how hot do they get ? That will determine mounting place. A few extra feet of #4 or heavier not a big deal for getting what I want. I am in the no propane open when on the road gruop, & just not changing mind . Will even add a battery if needed .

Chris Bryant wrote:
I hate to harp on this, but y'all are ignoring the fact that the OP's refrigerator does not draw 720 watts- 6 amps, unless it is a 4 door model, it draws 300 watts. That doesn't need a 2000 watt inverter, a 350-400 watt model would do fine- MSW- zero need for sine wave for a heating element.
#4 welding cable of whatever length he needs for a TC is overkill.
The OP stated the inverter is only for running the refrigerator over the road- why make things complicated?

True, but there is the "surge" in amps when cycling start-up, so most people report they need at least a 600w inverter for the res fridge.

Our new small absorption fridge on AC has a steady draw of more like 14 amps vs the 5 amp steady draw of the small res fridge we had. I don't know if there is a surge with the new fridge on AC when you switch from propane to AC.

We prefer to use the 120v mode from inverter while on the road and then switch to propane on arrival, but unless stopping for gas or taking a ferry, that is considered safe by many. (Unless you are in a car crash of course)

I hate to harp on this, but y'all are ignoring the fact that the OP's refrigerator does not draw 720 watts- 6 amps, unless it is a 4 door model, it draws 300 watts. That doesn't need a 2000 watt inverter, a 350-400 watt model would do fine- MSW- zero need for sine wave for a heating element.
#4 welding cable of whatever length he needs for a TC is overkill.
The OP stated the inverter is only for running the refrigerator over the road- why make things complicated?

ALL wire has a voltage drop that's converted to wasted heat energy. shorter and bigger the better for dc side on inverters.

RLS7201 wrote:
"as close to the batteries as possible". Really?

Richard

It's a rule of thumb. It is cheaper to run 120v wire than big 12v wire. Of course it can be put anywhere - but the performance and cost can change dramatically based on where it is.

Many trailers and coaches have a compartment near the batteries - so that tends to be the most cost effective way to get a well-performing install.

People sure seem ready to jump on and argue about anything lately on here.

"as close to the batteries as possible". Really? I've seen many OEM inverter/charger installation, with 15' or more of properly sized cable. I just did a little wiring repair on a Monaco Windsor that had a 3000 watt inverter/charger with over 12' of 4/0 cable. Country Coach use to put the inverter/charger behind the front axle and the batteries back by the diesel engine. That could be 30' or more of cable, using the frame as ground. Do the math and put your inverter where you need to, with the proper sized wiring.

Richard