Is it my power converter?

Question

I have a 2017 Crossroads Zinger travel trailer, 33 ft long. It's about two months old. We were parked in little run down RV park, and about a month ago we had a surge go through to all of the RV's in the park. It fried our fridge (it's only able to run on propane now) and I believe it fried our power converter as well... we checked the fuses at the breaker box and all but two are fine... none are fried, but two of them, when we pull them out no indicator light comes on and when they're put back in theres no electrical discharge like there is for the rest of the fuses. Unfortunately, none of the fuses are labeled... they're all just labeled as "general amp 15." Also, I'm led to believe our power converter isn't working properly (or it may just be completely fried).... our RV batteries are not being charged like they should be. We've been having to use a portable battery charger to keep them charged to keep our RV up and running. I'm very new to the RVing world, and stressed that we're already having all of these issues. All I would like to know is if this sounds like a power converter issue, and if I should go ahead and order a new one? We're living in this RV full time so my main concern is why the batteries aren't charging and what's we can do to fix the issue. Any help wouldn't  appreciated, thank you.

gjac · Answer

The easiest way to tell is to check voltage of your battery with the converter not plugged in the battery, should read 12.2 -12.6 v depending on the state of charge,then plug in the converter and take another reading does the voltage go up to 13+ volts if so your converter is working. Do you have a multimeter?

bfl13 · Answer

You should have a multimeter, especially as a full-timer. Check the voltage at the battery lugs by the converter's output-- sometimes they are on the fuse panel. Turn off shore power and you should get battery voltage of 12.x. Turn on shore power (to supply the converter) and you should see 13.x or more if it goes into bulk at 14.x.

With no meter, you can check with your DC lights--same thing only lights will be brighter at the higher converter voltage than at battery voltage.

You idiot lights battery monitor is actually a voltmeter. With battery only it might show a green or yellow light. With the converter voltage at 13.x (way above a full battery voltage of 12.7) the monitor will say "full" battery--even if the battery itself is dead.

The converter could be plugged into a receptacle, which is dead from being on a popped GFCI circuit, which the fridge's receptacle (outside in the back) might also be on. You can check those receptacles with your multimeter for 120v or plug in a 120v lamp that is known to work.

The power surge might have killed the converter with too much 120v. There is a 120v fuse inside the converter if you are comfortable taking the lid off and poking around. It is right by where the 120v wires are connected to the circuit board.

time2roll · Answer

Yes get a new converter.  Maybe a PI EMS surge and power protection device is also in order?http://www.progressiveindustries.net/our-products

enblethen · Answer

Fuses are for the 12 volt DC system.Conventional circuit breakers are used for the 120 volt AC system.Reset all circuit breakers. Turn them off applying light pressure toward OFF, then turn on main breaker if equipped, followed by branch breakers one at a time.

old-biscuit · Answer

All good advice^^^^^^120V AC circuit breakers....reset ALL12V DC fuses.....replace those 2 suspect onesGFCI Outlets....check/reset any of them  (kitchen/bathroom etc)ConverterVerify that you have 120V AC Voltage to converter.either via a Circuit Breaker or at outlet converter is plugged into (some or hardwired/some use power cord)Measure converter DC Output voltage ---should be 13.2V DC MINIMUM (if loweer converter has failed---replace)As for fridge...Not working on AC source (works OK on propane)...that tells us DC to fridge is GOOD (need it for electric AND propane)Verify outlet fridge is plugged into has AC power (tripped GCFI??)If outlet is hot them need to pull cover off of control module (backside of fridge---power cord/dc leads go to it) and check the 5A glass fuse. Bad...no AC.If it is good then could be the electric heat element is badBut think you will find tripped GCFIs...cause of no AC to outlet(s)And having a GOOD surge protector would be a GREAT Tool for NEXT time.  Progressive Industries (LIFETIME Warranty!!)

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Is it my power converter?

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