Is there a way I can safely test ebay laptop charger?

Been using something like this for years. Eliminate the inverter. Go dc to dc. A lot more efficient.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ACER-19V-4-74A-90W-LAPTOP-CAR-CHARGER-DC-ADAPTER-POWER-CORD-12V-/280844635224?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4163a50c58

Quote:
Since my OEM charger killed two laptops (I suspect MSW was the instigato),
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I doubt very seriously that a MSW inverter did it. I been using them on 5 different laptops for near 20 yrs,....never a problem. Bricks run warmer,...maybe, but never a problem.

Some warts provide 19-volts so testing them is a pain. But if the wart provides the correct voltage as measured with a meter it will not hurt the laptoo battery. If it's a cheap, underpowered wart it will take longer to recharge the battery. Most wall warts only provide 2.5 amps or so. I've seen cheapies develop half that meaning a long time a charging. But check the voltage. It must agree with what is listed on your old wart-brick exactly.

Naio wrote:
Since my OEM charger killed two laptops (I suspect MSW was the instigato), I am paranoid.

I got a 12v charger off ebay. I thought it was cool because it can do a wide range of voltages and plug types. But now....

I can try putting a voltmeter on it and see if it outputs what it says. Are there other things I can look for?

not really anything else to check. could try hooking it up to an automotive head lamp first, see what kind of wattage it puts out (use multimeter in series, set to 10a range). other than that, look for 15-18 volts output

most laptops dont really care that much, the charger just has to get the voltage close and supply sufficient amps (at least 45-60 watts total power, some beastly laptops want 90-120 watts), and the internal power supply circuit of the laptop takes it from there (providing 1.8, 3.3, 5 volts for various internal components)

Reference the web page for the 12 volt charger.

I'm confused:

You need the right kind of volts and the right amount of current (amps) to charge, or real-time run, your laptop.

You can get these two things from a charger/adapter for your laptop that is powered from a 120 volt alternating current wall outlet or that is powered from your RV battery(ies).

i.e. My HP laptop uses an OEM HP charger/adapter made for it. This charger/adapter can be powered from either a wall socket or from a 12V vehicle receptacle. What the charger/adapter does is make the proper direct current volts along with the necessary direct current amps for the laptop. It was very expensive when I bought it new along with the new laptop. Now the laptop is old. It's expensive OEM charger/adapter failed a couple of years ago. I went on eBay and bought an identical - in original packaging - OEM HP labeled charger/adapter for it for around $18. The price was low because the laptop is obsolete (in some people's eyes), so "nobody" wants one of it's once-expensive charger/adapter gizmos.

A little more info regarding your setup would be useful.

I suggest you go on eBay and look for the exact charger/adapter intended for your specific model laptop. Amazingly, somone just might have an original one in new, or near new, condition that they'll take peanuts for ... as compared to it's original retail price.