Is this slide out motor gone?

One last thing, the reason I didn't find the problem sooner was that I did not check the neutral outputs on the switch. It is the neutrals that were not making good contact, both hots were doing just fine. I haven't measured the slideout but it is about 12 foot.

Must be a very small slide-out! Ours draws more than 15a going in and out (13.5 ft slide) and the Lippert spec is a 30a fuse. Ours does not go through the DC fuse panel at all. The 30a fuse is in the battery compartment.

Beware installing the new switch to play with it before screwing it in so you have the IN and OUT the right way up :)

Problem solved. First no 30a fuse near the battery. The slideout has a 15a fuse on the panel and that is the only fuse. The problem is the switch. The switch contacts may be dirty, bad, who knows. However playing with the switch got it to working and I now have power at the motor and the motor works fine. The new switch will cost $26 versus $300-$500 for the motor on line. I did find one for $264 at RV Surplus. Thanks for all the input and help. Oh, I was wrong in the previous post about the chassis being the ground, clearly it is not.

Bigguy1951 wrote:
The motor is a Venture 18:1 with two leads going into the motor, one black, one red. The ground for the motor is the chassis. The two leads are the directional leads, one for "in" the other for "out". The switch for the slideout has one hot coming in (black), two commons (white) which are tied together to a common coming up from the panel, and two hots leaving (red or green) the switch. The two hots (only one can be hot at a time) tie to the two wires that go down and back to the motor leads. The trailer is a 2005 Forest River Sand Piper.

The battery pos input to the switch should have a 30a fuse near the battery to be checked.

The neg into the switch on ours comes from nearby on the frame. It can get corroded at the frame connection.

Lippert has a new switch that is a little different from the one that came with our 2003 trailer. It has different wire colours too, so you need to see Lippert's website for the diagram for "old" and "new". It may be a better switch as well.

Our old one went bad inside it, and once it was replaced this summer the slide works like new. Seems all our previous woes were to do with that rocker switch going bad over the last few years.

The motor to my rear slide would cut out and after cleaning and lubing the slides it works fine. Also a little lube on the screw. Whatever

lube was used before it was gummed up and tacky.

Hot wire the motor, then there is no question about the motor.
And if all else fails, bypass all the electrical, and install a double pole double thro switch direct between the battery and the motor. Then your troubles are over,......or at least if it ever quits again, you won't have far to look.
Like my Kwickee steps,.....its not automatic anymore, but it works everytime now !:)

The motor is a Venture 18:1 with two leads going into the motor, one black, one red. The ground for the motor is the chassis. The two leads are the directional leads, one for "in" the other for "out". The switch for the slideout has one hot coming in (black), two commons (white) which are tied together to a common coming up from the panel, and two hots leaving (red or green) the switch. The two hots (only one can be hot at a time) tie to the two wires that go down and back to the motor leads. The trailer is a 2005 Forest River Sand Piper.

Make model and year of trailer? Some have a small relay board that controls the motor and they can be hidden in the oddest places you can think of.

the outside casting is not tied internally.

That is why there are 2 separate wires for the reverse operation.

So, the motor runs and it's "shot". What would you expect it to do if it were good?

:h