Forum Discussion

DD716TED's avatar
DD716TED
Explorer
Mar 19, 2016

Kitchen Faucet leak.. What if???

My kitchen sink is located in the slide out. The slide out is connected to the trailer main frame using a flex line but from there to the faucet, it is PEX. When the trailer was new, the hot water connection to the faucet leaked and was fixed under warranty. They first tried tightening the fitting but eventually had to replace a gasket. Disconnecting the red PEX from the faucet was easily done but due to the rigidity of the PEX and the extremely limited access access to the faucet bottom, they ended up taking the sink out to make the PEX / faucet connection without cross threading the fitting. Now the same thing has happened to the cold water connection. Tightening the fitting did no good. I am sure my arm will reach to disconnect the PEX fitting on the bottom of the faucet but putting it back on and getting it aligned before threading the fitting on is a different story. Not only is the PEX rigid but has no slack to spare. GOOD OR BAD IDEA??... connect a regular house type faucet flexible line to the faucet which should be easier to install, cut the PEX pipe back a foot or two, install a shark-bite in line stop valve and then connect the flex line to the faucet to it. Just a thought in case leaks develop in the future I would not have to secure the water to then entire trailer.. Same could be done for Hot water side.. Just wondering???

10 Replies

  • wa8yxm's avatar
    wa8yxm
    Explorer III
    Recently I had to replace the kitchen sink faucet due to old age and wearout.

    Well Though the faucet is "Standard" within that standard there are several minor differences,, Most noticablly the length of the pipe which is part of the faucet.. The result is I had to do very much that kind of thing, worked great.
  • Pump is a good check. It will buzz every 1 to 30 minutes if you have a leak.
  • DrewE's avatar
    DrewE
    Explorer III
    It will pressurize it to the shutoff pressure, typically around 45 psi. That's fine as a quick check. I don't see any need to leave the pump on overnight to test for leaking; just turn it on, make sure water is in the new plumbing (by running water out the faucet), and check for leaking or seeping for a couple minutes.
  • I have made the changes / repairs but will be unable to test it using the external camp ground water pressure connection (with regulator on supply hose) before we depart on our next trip. If I turn my trailers pump on (water in onboard tank) and leave it on overnight, will it pressurize the system adequately to test my work for leaks?
  • I would do exactly what you are thinking of doing.

    Man that was a stupid design from the factory!

    Jack L
  • Yup mine has several flexlines and Sharkbite fittings added from the local home store.
    No issues in 5+ years.
  • DrewE's avatar
    DrewE
    Explorer III
    I agree, it's a very good plan. It would also make installing a drinking water filter or other plumbing gizmo that much easier in the future should you ever have an inkling to do so.

    It might be prudent to try to avoid having loops in the flex lines so that they drain better by gravity for winterizing, even though one typically can't rely on gravitation alone for getting all the water out.
  • My retrofitted kitchen sink supply lines:



    After all the plumbing was connected and tested, I installed clamps on all of the supply side plumbing to hold everything in place.
  • Sounds like a good plan. Your idea is better than the original design.
  • Sounds like it should work as long as the sharkbite will accommodate PEC