LED lights bulb information needed

There are many LED"s out there.. I have gone to ECO-LED which I get at assorted RV places (I think even Camping World carries this brand) The WBU-CW12 replaces the 1141 and matches it for brillance (This is a flat circle type) They also make "Cylinder" shaped. but the flat one works well in my fixtures.

THe downside 17-19 bucks a pop.

I ordered 4 sample LED panels from 2011_LED to try. I settled on these and am happy with them.

tenbear wrote:

martipr wrote:
I have made several LED purchases from this Chinese seller (2011_LED) on E Bay and have had excellent results. I have had terrible results from some other Chinese sellers on E Bay. I have replaced all of my interior lights with LEDs from "2011_led" except for 4 of my 6 1142 bulbs and presently have 4 on order.

X2 I have found a great variation between vendors on eBay. 2011_LED is not the cheapest but the LEDs I have bought from him have been good, other than a few I bought years ago.

X3, based on recommendations by tenbear and others, I just ordered a 10 pack of LED boards off 2011_LED (ebay) for about 25 bucks with free shipping. Gonna use them for a mod in the trailer to light up a very dark pantry in the kitchen of our new TT.

Going with a panel like this:
LEDs on Ebay

martipr wrote:
I have made several LED purchases from this Chinese seller (2011_LED) on E Bay and have had excellent results. I have had terrible results from some other Chinese sellers on E Bay. I have replaced all of my interior lights with LEDs from "2011_led" except for 4 of my 6 1142 bulbs and presently have 4 on order.

X2 I have found a great variation between vendors on eBay. 2011_LED is not the cheapest but the LEDs I have bought from him have been good, other than a few I bought years ago.

could be as simple as bad contacts on the lamps.

Or, could be bad design/LED's.

I had chinese ones that got dimmer and dimmer, and a few even unsoldered themselves when the converter was on because of excessive heating. But not ones that flikered. (Well at least not till they gave one last flicker and turned into a DED (darkness emitting diode)

Inexpensive ones often have only a resistor to set current, not a current regulator. Excess current kills LED lights in short order. to low a current kills light output drastically. Big balancing act for a device that is by it's design highly nonlinear for current vs. voltage, and highly temperature dependent.

High quality ones have a current regulator to hold constant current to the LED regardless of LED temperature and incoming voltage. But then those aren't inexpensive either.

Options are to go with high quality ones with a regulator and pay the $$$ or find a decent chinese version that works.

Cheap ones may work well forever, or may like my first try, suffer from overcurrent and end up gradually getting dimmer and dimmer till they are a nightlight.

but ones with good regulators that don't cause RF interference with radios, tv's etc. aren't inxpensive, figure about $10+ each. But they are BRIGHT. mine are noticeably brighter than any of the imports I've tried. And light output and current drain (power) is constant from about 11V all the way out through 18 or 24 volts depending on the voltage range they are designed for.

superbrightleds.com is one source of high quality regulated ones, but again not inexpensive either.

Pays your money and takes your chances.

I have made several LED purchases from this Chinese seller (2011_LED) on E Bay and have had excellent results. I have had terrible results from some other Chinese sellers on E Bay. I have replaced all of my interior lights with LEDs from "2011_led" except for 4 of my 6 1142 bulbs and presently have 4 on order.

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Before you go all nuts with condemning the lamp I would think about testing them first. With and without the converter/inverter/perverter/charger connected to shore power. Do your lamps act up exactly the same?

First I am not condemning the lamp, and yes I did test them under different conditions with the same results. Don't know what else it could be as I did purchase one locally and it seems to be working fine.

Before you go all nuts with condemning the lamp I would think about testing them first. With and without the converter/inverter/perverter/charger connected to shore power. Do your lamps act up exactly the same?