Forum Discussion
Teleman
Nov 08, 2021Explorer
time2roll wrote:Teleman wrote:LOL. In this case I recommend a clamp-on DC meter to measure the current. Also verify the fuse rating if any. Worst case you can disconnect the charging connection until you get this sorted out.time2roll wrote:Teleman wrote:Since you have a trailer the alternator charging will generally not be an issue. The long charge wire and multiple connections will self regulate the current to be below the 30-40 amp fuse rating.
I have a 30' Airstream Land Yacht with the 7.4 Vortec motor. Any idea what size alternator it has and if it needs a DC to DC converter?
I'm sorry it's a Class A motorhome. I should have specified, though I did mention the Vortec motor.
You may have a BIRD to maintain charge on chassis and house batteries depending on the power source. The DC-DC charger will create a one way circuit and effectively disable half the function of the relay. Some MH have other control and bypass systems that should be reviewed for loss of functionality by adding a DC-DC charger. I would always be inclined to keep the OEM system if possible.
When you say OEM system are you referring to lead acid batteries too? I have a Victron Smart Shunt but what numbers am I looking for?
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