Hi-newbie here trying to understand the electrical system in my rv. I have a 2001 Coach House Platinum 232.I know what caused my problem and got part of it fixed. I had a small heater going (Come on Spring) and forgot to unplug it before I plugged in my hair dryer. It shut down all plug ins. so I reset the GFCI breaker on circuit board and now all plugs work. Everything except lights everywhere. Am I understanding this right that the lights run off of 12 volt? Why would they now not work? I am plugged into AC at the moment. I unplugged from AC, and flipped my battery disconnect from on to off and on again and still no lights. Fuse? I looked at fuses and my 3 amp fuse looks elongated but not broken. Unfortunately, that is the only fuse that I don't have with me. Will pick up when I go out. My circuit board is not labeled and the electrical schematic that came with the coach is confusing. Would someone please help me troubleshoot this problem. I need to learn. Thanking you in advance.

More than likely you blew the main fuse. It will be located between the battery and where 12 volts comes in. Likely closer to the battery. Do you have and know how to use a volt meter?

No I do not have one nor know how to use one. There are two 30 amp green fuses in the circuit box. Would it be one of those? I can replace those and see if it works. Are there other fuses not located in the converter/fuse box?

There will be a main fuse located very close to the battery.

the only way to blow the battery fusewould be to overload the inverterNEVER run a heater on the inverter circuitwhat it sounds like is your house batteries are dead, your charge converter { or combo inveter/converter } was supplying all your 12v power, you tripped the CB in your 120v panel for the converter circuit OR blew the DC output fuse on the converterdoes your water pump work ? the blower in your LP furnacetry these with the shore power unplugged, and also plugged inis your fridge still working, it needs 12v for the control board circuiti'm not familiar with your RV, but our DP has 12v and 120v lightsall the 120v lights are on the inverter output along with the TV etc..check this out and report back we need the info to help you find your problem

OK thank you. Here is what I found so far. Furnace works and blower works plugged in. I don't want to start the generator as I am in a campground. Refrigerator works and board works. On auto it switched to gas when I unplugged. All there looks normal plugged in or not. Water pump works unplugged. Test panel shows full battery charge when unplugged. These are new batteries and a new converter box. The only thing that doesn't work are the lights. Does this help?

Light Problem | Good Sam Community

newadventure
Explorer
Mar 19, 2017
I am going to be in NC for the month of April. I have some things to take care of there. Right now I am on Strom Thurmond Lake. Nice lake by the way. Slowly making my way north.
wa8yxm
Explorer III
Mar 19, 2017
Give me a couple weeks and I'll be in SC,, not too far from you I suspect (Oconee County area) Perhaps you could park beside me for a day or two.
newadventure
Explorer
Mar 19, 2017
I don't like that word "issues". Just kidding! Back to going with the flow. Thank you again. We'll see what happens next.
enblethen
Nomad
Mar 19, 2017
Only thing that comes to mind is a DC control circuit.
Could be refer! Or water heater!
Add that the control circuit tries to turn on a 120 volt device that has issues.
newadventure
Explorer
Mar 19, 2017
I am back in business. Thank you all. Enblethem-thank you! So I started with the 15 amp since you said that it would be a 15 or 20. Got it on the first try. When I plugged back in again though the GFCI tripped again. Reset it and everything works. Can someone explain to me so that I understand-if I overloaded the AC side, why did a DC fuse blow? Also, why GFCI tripped again. There wasn't anything plugged in except the refrigerator on auto. Starting to label.
Harvey51
Explorer
Mar 19, 2017
I urge you to buy a multimeter (a $10 one is good enough) and find someone to teach you how to use it. For starters, you pretty well need to measure the voltage on the batteries while not charging, charging from engine, charging from AC power to the converter in order to know all these components are working.

When you get a chance play around with the system, switching off the inverter, to learn which outlets, lights and appliances are powered from the inverter. Also by AC from shore power. The remainder must be DC - labels for them should be made beside the fuses so it won't be confusing next time.

You cannot be shocked by touching 12 volts DC with your fingers. If you spit on two fingers and touch the battery terminals you will prove that to yourself.

Don't ask your teacher about measuring current (amps) until next year - beginners often burn out the current ranges on the meter so best not to use them yet.
D_E_Bishop
Explorer
Mar 19, 2017
I suggest that rather than swap fuses around that you by a simple test light with a probe that looks like an Ice Pick. Connect the clamp to a known ground and then try touching each side of the fuse. A little nub will be visible on either side of the rating which is printed on the top. Test both little nubs, if one side lights up the light in the probe handle and the other side doesn't, the fuse is blown.

Neither a VOM or DMM is any better than a simple test light. With the clamp attached to a ground point, you only need one hand to use the probe of the test light but two hands to use a meter. Some of us use test leads with alligator clips on one or the other leads, few meters come with them.

the secrete is to K.I.S.S, Keep It Simple Silly.
newadventure
Explorer
Mar 19, 2017
House lights are fluorescent ceiling, and bulbs in movable spot lighting. Bathroom and kitchen also bulbs. The TV works, all plugs work so charging computer plugged in. Yes the engine starts, battery is not that old. Will get back to everyone tomorrow when I change out some fuses. I just did not want to do something to make things worse so asked for advice first. I am learning. Thank you
MrWizard
Moderator
Mar 18, 2017
according to this review review in Motorhome magazine

there was a 1500w inverter option for your Coach house class B

some of the 12 lights might be on the chassis / automotive fuse circuits

will the engine start ? what is the condition of the engine/chassis battery

tripping a 120v CB should not affect the chassis fuses ?
MrWizard
Moderator
Mar 18, 2017
what fuses are you looking at

the RV house side, fuses will be 'blade' fuses
several side by side in a row, in or near the same place as the RV 120v circuit breakers

your RV house fuses are NOT under the dash or HOOD/hatch, or have anything to do with the Automotive-chassis driving stuff

your batteries are charged, essential appliances have DC power, it appears batteries and converter are good

you have NOT described your lights
wall scones, most likely 120v
inset ceiling 12v florescent ?
12v ceiling fixtures using (2) 12v bayonet lamps ?
LED conversion ?

does your Television work, is your computer charging or running off battery ?

Forum Discussion

Light Problem

About Technical Issues

Related Content

Running lights problem

Outside light...problem...

Problem with hazard warning lights

LED Lights

7.3. problem