Hi everyone,I'm working on my very first DIY camper conversion, using a 2010 extended Ford E250.I need to buy the equipment needed for the whole LP gas system.I already bought and installed a Manchester 7.9gal horizontal tank (6814) that's the starting point.No I will not do the work myself, I will have a professional do it but by buying the equipment myself I will save a lot of money, up here in Canada most of the RV equipment is at least 2 to 3 times more expensive. I'm buying it online and getting it in the US.I need to get the fittings, hoses, regulators, valves etc...The piping I will get up here in the hardware stores.What type of pressure regulator should I get? 2 stages? plastic cover?So If you can give me any advice it would be greatly appreciated.Thanks in advance.Suburban 2 burner cooktopGirard tankless water heaterMr Heater little budyPortable BBQ grill3 way 4.5c.f. refrigerator RM2454RBtake a look at 0:59sechttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ew8KZBCSWw

I can't really help you all that much. I think everything other than the grill and the heater will have either a NPT connection (the tank) or a flare fitting (the cooktop, I'm pretty sure the fridge, and probably the water heater, though it's not shown). In either case, your installer should have the appropriate connecting fittings readily available; they are not at all unique to RVs. I do want to stress, however, that I know rather little at all about the details of gas pipe fitting.The grill has some sort of a quick-conenct fitting. I kind of hope it came with a hose that has a mating fitting, or at least the fitting itself.The heater is set up to use 1 pound disposable cans, which means that it has a regulator built into it. You can't hook it up to the regulated propane system in your RV; having its regulator fed by low pressure gas won't work. The options there would be bypassing the regulator in the heater (if that can be done safely—there's a good chance that the regulator and control valve are a single unit), running a line for it from the high pressure output of the tank, using disposable cylinders, or getting a different heat setup. I'd probably suggest the last one, but it's undoubtedly the most expensive and it's always easier to spend someone else's hard earned cash than my own. Something like the smallest Atwood Everest furnace would be quite effective (and arguably safer as the combustion gasses are vented outside).One other heat possibility is setting up a hydronic (hot water) heat system using your existing water heater and a pump and radiators or heat exchangers. The plumbing side of such a system should of course be appropriate for potable water, and would generally have to be designed to be able to be drained or blown out for winterization if needed. Certainly it's not the simplest option to put together, but it could be workable.

DrewE wrote:I can't really help you all that much. I think everything other than the grill and the heater will have either a NPT connection (the tank) or a flare fitting (the cooktop, I'm pretty sure the fridge, and probably the water heater, though it's not shown). In either case, your installer should have the appropriate connecting fittings readily available; they are not at all unique to RVs. I do want to stress, however, that I know rather little at all about the details of gas pipe fitting.The grill has some sort of a quick-conenct fitting. I kind of hope it came with a hose that has a mating fitting, or at least the fitting itself.The heater is set up to use 1 pound disposable cans, which means that it has a regulator built into it. You can't hook it up to the regulated propane system in your RV; having its regulator fed by low pressure gas won't work. The options there would be bypassing the regulator in the heater (if that can be done safely—there's a good chance that the regulator and control valve are a single unit), running a line for it from the high pressure output of the tank, using disposable cylinders, or getting a different heat setup. I'd probably suggest the last one, but it's undoubtedly the most expensive and it's always easier to spend someone else's hard earned cash than my own. Something like the smallest Atwood Everest furnace would be quite effective (and arguably safer as the combustion gasses are vented outside).One other heat possibility is setting up a hydronic (hot water) heat system using your existing water heater and a pump and radiators or heat exchangers. The plumbing side of such a system should of course be appropriate for potable water, and would generally have to be designed to be able to be drained or blown out for winterization if needed. Certainly it's not the simplest option to put together, but it could be workable. Do you have a Mr heater buddy heater? Have you tryed to use it on low pressure? I have. The regulator is separate from the valve. You could install a tee after the regulator or adjust the regulator. If you decide to do this say bye bye to your warranty. And I would suggest NOT using the 1LB bottles with adjustment. I built a simple adaptor and without adjustment it would work on low but would not support high. If you do this, find find someone that understands how the low-oxygen shut-off pilot system works. It is a very simple system. Good luck with your adventure.

DrewE wrote:I can't really help you all that much. I think everything other than the grill and the heater will have either a NPT connection (the tank) or a flare fitting (the cooktop, I'm pretty sure the fridge, and probably the water heater, though it's not shown). In either case, your installer should have the appropriate connecting fittings readily available; they are not at all unique to RVs. I do want to stress, however, that I know rather little at all about the details of gas pipe fitting.The grill has some sort of a quick-conenct fitting. I kind of hope it came with a hose that has a mating fitting, or at least the fitting itself.The heater is set up to use 1 pound disposable cans, which means that it has a regulator built into it. You can't hook it up to the regulated propane system in your RV; having its regulator fed by low pressure gas won't work. The options there would be bypassing the regulator in the heater (if that can be done safely—there's a good chance that the regulator and control valve are a single unit), running a line for it from the high pressure output of the tank, using disposable cylinders, or getting a different heat setup. I'd probably suggest the last one, but it's undoubtedly the most expensive and it's always easier to spend someone else's hard earned cash than my own. Something like the smallest Atwood Everest furnace would be quite effective (and arguably safer as the combustion gasses are vented outside).One other heat possibility is setting up a hydronic (hot water) heat system using your existing water heater and a pump and radiators or heat exchangers. The plumbing side of such a system should of course be appropriate for potable water, and would generally have to be designed to be able to be drained or blown out for winterization if needed. Certainly it's not the simplest option to put together, but it could be workable.Hi DrewEYou're right, I will let the installer use his standard fittings for the fridge/cooktop/water heater they all seem to have the same connection.As for the heater... I got the wrong model (little buddy), the one I got only has high pressure :Sthis is the model they use in RVs (big buddy) but it's way to big for my little camper, fast forward to 1:56 in this video :https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mRxUB9tktOsI prefer having a portable catalytic heater, no need to vent anything outside (with the curved outside panels of my Ford E250 van...) and I like the idea of using it somewhere else (house/tent/garage/etc...) kind of like my portable generator.This model seems interesting :http://www.amazon.com/Camco-57331-Olympian-Wave-3-Catalytic/dp/B000BUV1RK/ref=sr_1_55?ie=UTF8&qid=1463451066&sr=8-55&keywords=catalytic+heater

Careful with those unvented heaters in small spaces. I, personally, won't use one. Doesn't mean you can't. Yes, they operate at higher than 11" WC. That's also true of portable BBQ's. You could try to remove your BBQ regulator to make it work with the tank system's pressure.

westend wrote:Careful with those unvented heaters in small spaces. I, personally, won't use one. Doesn't mean you can't. Yes, they operate at higher than 11" WC. That's also true of portable BBQ's. You could try to remove your BBQ regulator to make it work with the tank system's pressure.Even if the heater has a low oxygen sensor and a LP/CO alarm would be installed, you still wouldn't use them?

LP gas Diagram, help needed. | Good Sam Community

19 Replies

evy
Explorer
Jun 14, 2016
So I got most of the parts I was missing...
GASMAN6674
Explorer
May 19, 2016
Flare fittings require no sealant, the POL and disposable bottle connections also require no sealant. Use Teflon tape or approved pipe dope on pipe threads only.
You could also use a POL tee in the tank valve, you could then connect the regulator to one side and the "high" pressure stuff to the other. Contact your local LP Gas dealer to purchase, Google RegO 1350E To Veiw.
I would also add a shut off valve after you "tee" the high pressure line so you can leave it shutoff when not in use.
evy
Explorer
May 18, 2016
Ho quick question, to seal the threads do I use regular teflon plumbing tape?
evy
Explorer
May 18, 2016
GASMAN6674 wrote:
Check This site. It looks like you would need to make your elbow but they have the fittings.
http://www.mrheater.com/product/accessories.html?limit=32&p=1

ok so if I understand, I have to get these two fittings?

90deg elbow :
http://www.mrheater.com/90-degree-elbow.html

and this female throw away cylinder thread :
http://www.mrheater.com/1-4in-male-pipe-thread-x-1in-20-female-throwaway-cylinder-thread.html

I would replace that fitting (bottom left) on the 90deg elbow by the female throw away cylinder thread fitting? right?

Or would this one work?
http://www.amazon.com/LASCO-17-5367-Propane-Fitting-20-Male/dp/B00J5VUEC4
GASMAN6674
Explorer
May 18, 2016
Check This site. It looks like you would need to make your elbow but they have the fittings.
http://www.mrheater.com/product/accessories.html?limit=32&p=1
evy
Explorer
May 18, 2016
I also have a couple of questions.

As you can see in this picture/drawing I need to add an elbow for the 12ft hose, otherwise I would have the hose bend on the other side of the van before going under it.
is this a standard fitting 90 brass elbow or do I need something special?

Also, I want to end the 12ft hose on the side of my van, ready to connect the BBQ grill or a portable LP gas campfire (eventually), what is the best way to do this?

They will each have their own hoses and regulators.

I will probably have to remove the quick connect fitting on the grill?
evy
Explorer
May 18, 2016
GASMAN6674 wrote:
Here is a link to a cover.
http://www.amazon.com/Camco-59344-Stage-Regulator-Cover/dp/B009JC8SFE

Unless you need flexibility for movement I would recommend all gas lines under the vehicle be steel or copper. Critters love to chew hoses and I would keep any permanent ones as short as possible.
Good Luck

Hey thanks!
I will wire those covers with a fishing line so they don't fly away when on the road (just in case)
GASMAN6674
Explorer
May 18, 2016
Here is a link to a cover.
http://www.amazon.com/Camco-59344-Stage-Regulator-Cover/dp/B009JC8SFE

Unless you need flexibility for movement I would recommend all gas lines under the vehicle be steel or copper. Critters love to chew hoses and I would keep any permanent ones as short as possible.
Good Luck
evy
Explorer
May 18, 2016
Quick update.

I hope I don't insult anyone by my choices :-/

I pulled the trigger on a Camco/Olympian wave 3 3000btu heater, after reading the reviews on amazon, I feel comfortable with it, I got a pretty good deal on ebay at 147$, I will return the Mr heater little buddy I got earlier this year.
I like the propex that mounts under the van (1000$) but for now I'm ok with my choice, I don't even know if I'll camp in cold conditions so we'll see.

I also pulled the trigger on this kit by Camco
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014JG7RQ/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=A4NAXNEA66GA&coliid=I1DODDXQY7G6H8&psc=1

I havent pulled the trigger on the pressure regulator yet, I'm looking at this one.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0024E6TQY/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=A4NAXNEA66GA&coliid=I163LUJ53KJ036&psc=1

I still haven't found anything on the grey cover everyone seems to have??

I also updated my LP gas diagram.
westend
Explorer
May 17, 2016
evy wrote:
I will have a Tankless warer heater can it be used for that kind of system?

Is there a basic kit I can buy (hydronic) or is it a complete DIY project?

I would think your tankless heater could be used but installing an expansion tank might improve efficiency.

Yes, there are hydronic kits available but there are also an abundance of transmission coolers or other heat exchangers available in all sorts of sizes and configurations. An aluminum exchanger would be desirable as it fits the use of potable water. Same holds true for fans, millions available in all sizes.

There are a few threads about hydronic heating on the Forum. I am contemplating how to integrate hydronic into my trailer as auxiliary heat in a certain area. My main issue is that I have a metal fresh water tank and, in the Winter, that is a huge heat sink for cold air. It is located under a dinette seat and that seating area is frigid even with comfortable cabin temps. I may use the load control of my solar system and a heating element to raise the temp of the tank when empty (a 12 V heating pad) or/and a submersible element when it is full of water.

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LP gas Diagram, help needed.

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