LP problems, no furnace no water heater
I picked up on 05 forest river last year, we have never RV'ed in it yet. I'm trying to get the heat to kick on and trying to get the water heater to fire but no luck. I have all the paper work, the...
Forum Discussion
OK.....
You have Lights so some of the DC System is working.
No fridge lights inside or on panel-----NO DC to fridge
Furnace doesn't turn on..........NO DC to furnace
Water heater doesn't run on propane......NO DC to water heater
AC Circuit Breaker ALL 120VAC
Main 30A
A/C 20A (Fan and Compressor)
GFI/Reefer 15A (Reefer AC to outlet in outside compartment & for electric element ONLY nothing to do with fridge panel/inside lights)
Micro 15A
Converter 15A (AC input for converter DC output/battery charging)
Water heater 15A (For the Electric heat element)
**** That switch you turned ON in outside compartment turns Electric Heat element ON.........so water should be HOT by now (Looks like that is the ONLY ON/OFF Switch for your WH Electric element-----Good thing you had water in WH Tank before turning it ON)
DC Dict Panel 12VDC FUSES
1) 15A ??? Porch (Outside lights)
2) 15A Kitchen (lights)
3) 15A Bath (exhaust fan.....lights)
4) 15A Reefer/Furn !!!!!!!!!
5) 15A ????? can't make out
6) 7.5A ???? can't make out
7) 7.5A Radio
Don't see DC fused labeled for water pump.....should be 10A or higher (maybe #5 and is also DC to water heater)
Does water pump run?
****** FUSES #4 & #5
#4....REEFER/Furnace.........need to make sure that fuse is actually GOOD
#5....??? Could be water pump and water heater DC Fuse........make sure it's GOOD
Do you have a multimeter and know how to test voltages with it>
If DC Fuses are GOOD......pull and check them ALL (Red lights to right of fuses are suppose to light up when a fuse blows) but you need to PULL them out and check them.
But if fuses are good then testing for 12V DC at fridge and water heater (in outside compartments) will be needed. THen comes testing for DC to furnace.
Good luck....get posting what you find.
FYI......
Converter should have a 13.2V DC Output minimum so it CAN supply ALL of the DC Voltage needed and maintain battery charge
Fridge/furnace/water heater circuit boards may have 3X attempt then lock out-----when they lock out because no flame then to reset you just turn them OFF then back ON for 3X more attempts
BUT you don't have DC to those YET.
Find where the DC is stopped from going to them and THEY will most like run OK
And the stove top burners look good
You have Lights so some of the DC System is working.
No fridge lights inside or on panel-----NO DC to fridge
Furnace doesn't turn on..........NO DC to furnace
Water heater doesn't run on propane......NO DC to water heater
AC Circuit Breaker ALL 120VAC
Main 30A
A/C 20A (Fan and Compressor)
GFI/Reefer 15A (Reefer AC to outlet in outside compartment & for electric element ONLY nothing to do with fridge panel/inside lights)
Micro 15A
Converter 15A (AC input for converter DC output/battery charging)
Water heater 15A (For the Electric heat element)
**** That switch you turned ON in outside compartment turns Electric Heat element ON.........so water should be HOT by now (Looks like that is the ONLY ON/OFF Switch for your WH Electric element-----Good thing you had water in WH Tank before turning it ON)
DC Dict Panel 12VDC FUSES
1) 15A ??? Porch (Outside lights)
2) 15A Kitchen (lights)
3) 15A Bath (exhaust fan.....lights)
4) 15A Reefer/Furn !!!!!!!!!
5) 15A ????? can't make out
6) 7.5A ???? can't make out
7) 7.5A Radio
Don't see DC fused labeled for water pump.....should be 10A or higher (maybe #5 and is also DC to water heater)
Does water pump run?
****** FUSES #4 & #5
#4....REEFER/Furnace.........need to make sure that fuse is actually GOOD
#5....??? Could be water pump and water heater DC Fuse........make sure it's GOOD
Do you have a multimeter and know how to test voltages with it>
If DC Fuses are GOOD......pull and check them ALL (Red lights to right of fuses are suppose to light up when a fuse blows) but you need to PULL them out and check them.
But if fuses are good then testing for 12V DC at fridge and water heater (in outside compartments) will be needed. THen comes testing for DC to furnace.
Good luck....get posting what you find.
FYI......
Converter should have a 13.2V DC Output minimum so it CAN supply ALL of the DC Voltage needed and maintain battery charge
Fridge/furnace/water heater circuit boards may have 3X attempt then lock out-----when they lock out because no flame then to reset you just turn them OFF then back ON for 3X more attempts
BUT you don't have DC to those YET.
Find where the DC is stopped from going to them and THEY will most like run OK
And the stove top burners look good
