LP vs AC

Also, you might want to look into the small circulation fans that some people put in their fridges. There are a few threads around these forums regarding that.

Kountryguy wrote:
Like a previous poster, the freezer seems to be cold enough, but the refrigerator is another story. Any suggestions will be appreciated.

If the freezer is 0-10F then start looking for air leaks like the refer door gasket. Otherwise find out why the freezer isn't cold.

I don't know if my experience will help, but...

I've found that on hot days, my refrig will cool really well. On cool days, not so much - still works, but doesn't seem as cold. Since it does what we need it to do, I haven't put any effort into seeing if I can change that.

I have not found that much of a difference between gas or electric, but we are just weekenders so I've not done any long term use.

The process for the propane refrigerator has been around for many years. I can remember one from back when I was a kid in the 40's... It is truly amazing how you can put fire or heat in one end and get cooling out of the other end.

Reading up on-line it says the refrigerant in LP gas/ electric refrigerators is ammonia- the oldest refrigerant used.

In an RV refrigerator, the heat can by generated by an LP gas flame or an electric heating element- the heating element can be 120 volt AC, or 12 volt DC.

With all of this in mind there really shouldn't be any difference whether you use a gas flame or electric heating element as long as the ammonia gets heated up properly. The only difference maybe might be dirty flue or poor connections etc...

I would think keeping the fridge in the a cool environment as best you can would be the best of all worlds. Parking where the high sun always hits the outside wall of the fridge probably not a good idea.

Roy Ken

dougrainer wrote:
The BTU's of LP AND 120 ac are identical. RV refers will operate the exact same on either source. There is NO WAY to even test to see which way is better. There are way to many variables that would affect an absorbsion cool down rate. Slightly LOW LP pressure and/or a dirty burner will cause slower cooling on LP. Low AC voltage will cause slower cooling on 120(Very common at marginal CG's with AC supply currents). As the OP stated, HE thinks it cools better on AC, NOT LP. But, if so, he needs his refer LP burner and his LP pressure checked. Doug

Doug in research testing can be done quite well if you manage the variables like we did. :) Doing the testing on the old Norcold 6162 was not hard at all with the new Amish reman cooling using and cleaned electric element and burner.

If your fridge is not cooling well on propane, but it is on AC, then you most likely have a propane problem. Check the flue, burner and propane pressure.

If the flue and burner are clean, look at the flame. It may look good, but if it in not "tall", say around an inch, your regulator may be going bad and not providing enough pressure. Low flame will not provide enough heat to properly cool the fridge.

Yes, it has happened to me. A manometer revealed low pressure, adjustment to the regulator at the tank helped a little, but not enough to fix the problem. A new regulator did.

Check the door gasket, paying special attention to the bottom portion.

Jim, "Ever stop to think, and forget to start again?"

Check voltages. When my fridge is running from my generator which is running at 120-122 VAC, I notice no cooling differences between that and propane. However, I would guess that if voltage is at 110-115VAC, then LP gas would win out.

I use gas mainly, but it doesn't hurt to swap between the two.

Check out this site to understand what is going on inside the fridge.

http://youtu.be/oIJYx5j2nPQ