Forum Discussion

RV_daytrader's avatar
RV_daytrader
Explorer
Dec 22, 2014

Make alternator charge house battery better

Would this charge house battery better? Run a new heavy alternator wire to house battery first and use existing wire that goes from chassis battery to isolator to converter to house battery to charge the chassis battery ? This is in my class C.
  • RV daytrader wrote:
    Would this charge house battery better? Run a new heavy alternator wire to house battery first and use existing wire that goes from chassis battery to isolator to converter to house battery to charge the chassis battery ? This is in my class C.


    Sorry, do not understand. There is no (or at least should be no) converter involved.

    Simplest way: Use a marine simple ON-OFF switch. Wire alternator output and chassis battery cable to one lug and house battery to the other. Switch ON means both batteries get full charge with no loss from a diode-based isolator and no potential failure of a solenoid-based isolator. Switch OFF means battery banks are separated, and while driving, the house battery will not get a charge (great choice if driving from CG with shore power to CG with shore power. Why spend gasoline to "over-charge" the house batteries all day??
  • How many batteries in the house? What is the alternator rating?
    I doubt the YODA has enough of the FORCE with it to charge the battery significantly faster.

    I actually recommend 200 watts of solar instead. Works very well camped or in transit.
  • Not a good idea.
    I would run the auxiliary battery not through an isolator but through a continuous duty relay operated by a hot in "run" position of the ignition switch.
    Diode based isolators loose some power where a relay based isolation relay does not.
    Run the relay off the chassis battery fused for around 30 amps prior to going to relay contact points.
  • That sounds like a bad plan to me for two reasons. First, if the isolator fails, your chassis battery won't charge at all, and you'll be stuck sooner or later...probably sooner. Second, the alternator's voltage regulator will be regulating based on the chassis battery, but the output mostly going to the house battery, leading to poor voltage regulation and (if the isolator is anything fancier than a solenoid) quite possibly dramatically overcharging the house battery.

    Running a heavier wire from the isolator to the house battery would probably help, and making sure all the connections are good and tight won't hurt. Ultimately, you may be limited just by the alternator output capability (and how much it exceeds the chassis electrical requirements), and no amount of fiddling with connections can help that.